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Free crochet pattern for Bunny Headbands

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Hello and welcome to my latest free crochet pattern for bunny headbands. I have been working on lots of projects using the bunny stitch that I developed during January. My main focus was to create something that people would like to make over the Easter holidays but actually bunnies are fun all year round! There are other free project patterns to follow so please sign up to my mailing list or check back in to find those.

crochet bunny stitch headbands
crochet bunny stitch headbands

This pattern uses Stylecraft Special Chunky yarn which is very good quality for the price and available in a wide range of colours. Projects work up quickly on a 6mm hook. You can see the range of yarn here at Woolwarehouse which is where I buy all my yarn 🙂

The pattern is shown in two sizes – Adult which measures c 21 inches by 2.5 inches (depending on your tension) and child which measures c 18 inches by 2.5 inches

Instructions

This pattern will use the free stitch pattern that I posted earlier. There are two links to this pattern, one for UK and one for US crochet terms. Please follow the instructions relating to the crochet terms you would like to see!

Note – The pattern is worked in the round and all rows are worked on the right side of the piece with the exception of the bunny bodies row which is worked from the wrong side.

Free crochet pattern for Bunny Headbands – UK terms

Foundation row

For the adult size make a chain of 72 and slip stitch to join to the end of the chain and form a loop.

For the child size make a chain of 60 and slip stitch to join to the end of the chain and form a loop.

Note – when you form the loop with a slip stitch, take care not to twist the chain or you will end up with a bump or twist in your work on later rounds.

Rows 1, 2 and 3

Chain 2 then work a round in DC ending the row with a slip stitch to join to the second of the two starting chain stitches. Check the number of stitches doesn’t grow or reduce as you work. Stitch markers can be a big help with this. You need a multiple of four stitches on each row before you start to add the bunnies. Note the starting chain counts as one stitch.

After three rows of DC you have a band and you are ready to add a row of bunny ears!

Row 4

For this row we will follow the instructions for row 4 in the bunny stitch post which you will find here for UK crochet terms. However, the start of the row is slightly different. Start with 2CH then just one DC before putting in the first ear stitch. This will mean that after the last pair of ears you have one more DC before joining with a slip stitch to complete the round.

TIP – after you work your last pair of ears, do not carry yarn B along, we will be needing it just where it is. You can cut and weave in the end of Yarn A because we will need to rejoin Yarn A after the row of bunny bodies has been added.

Row 5

This round is the only one we will work from the wrong side of the piece. Turn your work inside out and pick up yarn B which should be positioned at the end of the last pair of ears you added.

Chain 3 then work a three Tr cluster into the space below and between the bunny ears. Treat the chain as the first Tr of the four Tr cluster that makes the bunny body so pull the yarn through to leave one loop on the hook after this first bunny. Chain 3 and continue to follow the pattern for row 5 of the bunny stitch.

At the end of the row when you have worked the last bunny, chain 3 and join with a slip stitch to the top of the 3 chain that started the row.

REMEMBER to turn the work back round so that you complete the remaining rows from the right side of the work.

Row 6

Follow the instructions for row 6 of the bunny stitch pattern. ie Join in yarn A to the gap between two bunnies and work two chain then one DC into the same gap. Keeping the tension even, work four DC into the next and every following gap between bunnies until you reach the end of the row where you will need to work two DC and slip stitch to join to the chain stitch that started the row.

Rows 7 and 8

Chain 2 then work a round in DC ending the row with a slip stitch to join to the second of the two starting chain stitches.

And there you are – a finished headband. Just the pesky ends to tie off now 🙂

Free crochet pattern for Bunny Headbands – US terms

Foundation row

For the adult size make a chain of 72 and slip stitch to join to the end of the chain and form a loop.

For the child size make a chain of 60 and slip stitch to join to the end of the chain and form a loop.

Note – when you form the loop with a slip stitch, take care not to twist the chain or you will end up with a bump or twist in your work on later rounds.

Rows 1, 2 and 3

Chain 2 then work a round in SC ending the row with a slip stitch to join to the second of the two starting chain stitches. Check the number of stitches doesn’t grow or reduce as you work. Stitch markers can be a big help with this. You need a multiple of four stitches on each row before you start to add the bunnies. Note the starting chain counts as one stitch.

After three rows of SC you have a band and you are ready to add a row of bunny ears!

Row 4

For this row we will follow the instructions for row 4 in the bunny stitch post which you will find here for US crochet terms. However, the start of the row is slightly different. Start with 2CH then just one SC before putting in the first ear stitch. This will mean that after the last pair of ears you have one more SC before joining with a slip stitch to complete the round.

TIP – after you work your last pair of ears, do not carry yarn B along, we will be needing it just where it is. You can cut and weave in the end of Yarn A because we will need to rejoin Yarn A after the row of bunny bodies has been added.

Row 5

This round is the only one we will work from the wrong side of the piece. Turn your work inside out and pick up yarn B which should be positioned at the end of the last pair of ears you added.

Chain 3 then work a three DC cluster into the space below and between the bunny ears. Treat the chain as the first DC of the four DC cluster that makes the bunny body so pull the yarn through to leave one loop on the hook after this first bunny. Chain 3 and continue to follow the pattern for row 5 of the bunny stitch.

At the end of the row when you have worked the last bunny, chain 3 and join with a slip stitch to the top of the 3 chain that started the row.

REMEMBER to turn the work back round so that you complete the remaining rows from the right side of the work.

Row 6

Follow the instructions for row 6 of the bunny stitch pattern. ie Join in yarn A to the gap between two bunnies and work two chain then one SC into the same gap. Keeping the tension even, work four SC into the next and every following gap between bunnies until you reach the end of the row where you will need to work two SC and slip stitch to join to the chain stitch that started the row.

Rows 7 and 8

Chain 2 then work a round in SC ending the row with a slip stitch to join to the second of the two starting chain stitches.

And there you are – a finished headband. Just the pesky ends to tie off now 🙂

Variations to the free crochet pattern for bunny headbands

There are lots of potential colour options here. You could add stripes of different colour by changing at the start of each round. I recommend you keep a high contrast between the yarn colour you use for the band and the one you use for the bunnies though. I made some samples where the colours were not sufficiently different and the headbands did not look as striking. You couldn’t see the bunnies well from a distance. Of course you might actually prefer it that way – your choice!

Another variation option is to widen the band by adding in a row of Tr (DC in US terms) either side of the bunnies. To do this place the first row of Tr (DC in US terms) between row 1 and 2 above and the second row of Tr (DC in US terms) between the last two rows of DC (SC). So that the pattern after the bunny stitches reads two rounds of DC, one round of Tr and a final row of DC. OR in US terms two rounds of SC, one round of DC and a final row of SC.

My final pattern tweak is that you could work the foundation and first row plus the final row of the headband in the same colour you use for the bunnies. I will add a photo of that version to this post as soon as I have worked one up!

I hope you like this free crochet pattern for bunny headbands. If you would like an add free pattern I will be adding one to my Etsy shop. The headbands are already listed on my shop. Please join my mailing list for more free patterns and crochet love. Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

PS. This hat pattern is coming soon!

crochet bunny stitch sunhat
crochet bunny stitch sunhat

Crochet Chain Garland

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In an attempt to help reduce plastic pollution, I have been making sustainable decorations including this crochet chain garland. This is another fun, quick, easy make. I made the example here in sustainable cotton as part of a set of decorations I designed with weddings or girls bedrooms in mind.

Crochet Chain Garland with ‘table confetti’ hearts

If you like the little ‘table confetti’ hearts, the pattern for those is here.

This idea would also work with bright colours and different weights of yarn. The pattern is a fab stash buster as you can mix and match any colours you have. Each link in the chain requires only a small amount of yarn. I plan to make a super chunky version with the left over yarn from all my rainbow projects which you can see here

Crochet Chain Garland Pattern

Note – this pattern uses DK weight yarn and a four mm hook. However it can be adjusted to any yarn weight – instructions at the bottom.

For the first link.

Chain 35 and join to the first chain with a slip stitch.

First round – chain two. Work DC into the each chain (SC in US terms). Finish the round with a slip stitch to join to the top of the first stitch.

Second round – chain three. Work TR (DC in US terms) into each of the DC on the previous row. (SC in US terms). Again finish the round with a slip stitch.

Third and final round – work a round of DC (SC in US terms) as round 1. Finish with a slip stitch and tie off the yarn. You have made your first link.

Second and all subsequent links

Start with a chain the same length as your first link. If you are using the same weight yarn as I used that means a chain of 35. The only difference between this and the first link is that we need to join to the rest of the garland. To do this, thread the chain through the first link before you make the slip stitch into the first chain to form the loop.

Continue to form this link in the same way as you made the first. Each link in the chain is free to move through its neighbours. They are not attached – just threaded together.

And that is it! Continue for as many links as you like. Make patterns with the colours or make them happily random with any remnants from your stash!

Changing the pattern to suit different weights of yarn.

Consider what size of link will work best for the yarn weight. I find that links work well when the length of the link is eight to ten times the height. You can work out how many stitches it takes to make the size you require based on the tension square instructions on the ball band.

Example – Super Chunky – Lion Brand Yarns – Hometown USA. The ball band has a 10cm tension square of 12 rows x 9 stitches. The pattern gives the equivalent of four rows so the links would be c 3.3 cm high.

I want each link to be 8 to 10 times as long as they are tall so I need them to be 27cms which means 30 stitches. This is super chunky yarn so these chains will be HUGE – but I hope that gives you the method to use to adjust the pattern.

Hope you enjoy making these happy garlands!

Annie. 🙂

Heart full of Rainbows Cushion

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This heart full of rainbows cushion is a companion project to my hearts and rainbows blanket. You will be working entirely in DC (UK terms) or SC (US terms). It is a simple project. However you will need to understand how to increase/decrease your stitches. I have suggested a method below but you might have one you prefer. The making-up instructions might be a bit tricky if you are new to crochet. I will put my instructions here and in the final PDF version of the pattern which will be available on Etsy. You can see the hearts and rainbows blanket here.

heart full of rainbows cushion and blanket
free pattern for hearts and rainbows blanket, heart full of rainbows cushion available on my blog

First things first. The yarn used to make the Heart Full of Rainbows Cushion is Lion Brand Yarns, Hometown USA yarn. This is a super chunky yarn which means the work grows really quickly! 🙂 I love this yarn for that reason and because it has lovely bright colours and is good value for the price. In the UK I buy all my yarn from Wool Warehouse. Note – at this point these are not affiliate links so I am not paid to promote either brand – I just love them!

To make the cushion you will need one ball of each of the colours of the rainbow. For the edging I used White and Black but if you wanted to keep the cost down you could edge the cushion in one of the other colours. You will also need a 9mm crochet hook.

I created a chart for this pattern which I like to print out and mark off as I go. I will write out the instructions long hand in the PDF pattern but if you want to get started, the free download is here:

Heart Full of Rainbows Chart (14729 downloads )

Making the Heart full of Rainbows Cushion

Start at the bottom of the chart by making a chain of 4 using the violet yarn. Turn and work two DC (SC for US terms) starting in the third stitch from the hook. Chain four and turn the work.

Second row – work one DC (SC for US terms) into the third and fourth stitches from the hook. work 2 DC (SC for US terms) into the next two stitches. Chain 2 and turn the work.

Third row – work two DC (SC for US terms) into the first stitch. Work 4 DC (SC for US terms). Work 2 DC (SC for US terms) into the next stitch then chain two and turn the work.

Continue in this manner, increasing the number of stitches on each row to match the chart. Remember to change colour when the chart changes!!

When you get to the decrease rows again there are many methods you can use to decrease. To get a neater edge you can miss the second stitch of the row. You might find it easier to miss the first – this gives a stepped edge but as you are going to be edging the heart that should not be visible. When you chain two and turn at the end of the row simply miss the first stitch and work DC (SC in US terms) into the second. If the decrease is at the end of a row then stop one stitch short chain two and turn.

As you decrease follow the chart again and you will see that at the top of the heart you need to turn the work in the middle of the row. This allows you to complete one side of the top of the heart. You will need to rejoin the yarn in the middle of the work to complete the second side of the heart.

The final stage of each side of the cushion is to edge the heart. I did this in white but you could use whichever colour you like. This step gives you a neat edge to use when you join the two hearts together. Count the stitches you use on each side so that you can match front and back. The edging is entirely DC again (SC in US terms). Try to space your stitches so that the work lies flat without being stretched or pulled. I used the following number of stitches:

Working up the bottom side of the heart violet to Green – 27 stitches

For the straight section, part of the green, yellow and the start of the Orange, I used 10 stitches.

From the start of the decrease and up to the top of the heart I worked 15 stitches.

Work the six stitches across the top of the heart and from the top down to the centre I worked 14 stitches.

In the very centre of the heart where you have two stitches (number 26/27 on the orange row of the chart) work these two together.

Complete the second half of the edging to match the first. Work one round of DC (SC in US terms). At the centre of the heart again where you worked two stitches together, work three together on this round.

When you have finished one heart you will need to start all over again on the second side. I made two matching rainbow hearts but if you are using up scraps you could make the back of the cushion out of a single colour or just use whatever you have!

Making up the Heart Cushion

Now you should have two completed, edged hearts. I suggest you tie in the ends at this point but bear in mind that the back of this work is the inside of a cushion which nobody should ever see so there is no real need to make these ends disappear. The thickness of the yarn makes tying in ends neatly quite difficult. All you really need to do is secure them and make sure that nothing is visible from the front.

To finish the cushion you need to join the two hearts together. I used black for this – if your edging is neat this is a really quick job! Put the two hearts back to back ie with the sides you want to see on the outside. Join in black yarn (or your choice) and work DC (SC in US terms) all the way round putting your hook through the white edge stitches on both sides of the cushion. As you form your DC (SC in US terms) you will see that you are joining front to back.

Don’t join all the way round until you have put your cushion pad into the heart! I have done this – it made me feel very silly but it is easy to forget when you are on the downhill slopes towards a finished project!!

I have a separate post on creating the cushion pad which you can read here. If you want to be able to take your cushion cover off to wash it then you should leave an opening in the side which will need a separate fastening. I would recommend leaving a section of the bottom of one side of the heart. When you are edging just drop the back for a section so that you are only working into the white edge stitches on one heart.

My cushion has washable insides so I didn’t leave any openings to remove the cover.

I hope you like this heart cushion – the rainbow motif has come to stand for thank you to our nurses since I made mine! I have changed my social media image to this heart as my own small thank you. How our world has changed these last few weeks. Here’s hoping we get back to happier times soon.

Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Yarn Salvage #2 – more tips

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Hello, In my last post I promised you another set of tips and ‘how to points’ on yarn salvage. The project is going very well here and I am drowning a bit in yarn!

With Autumn coming on, I have also started looking at the list of people I would like to make Christmas and Birthday presents for!   I plan to use some of this new yarn stash to create beautiful things for my friends and family.   I will post a list pattern links when I have it together but as a start point I am making my striped scarf up with some of the greens and greys.

Here is a link to the Striped Scarf pattern and you can see the scarf above in pink and in blue. This type of pattern is ideal for using recycled yarn as you can vary the design according to the yarn you have available and it is easier to mix yarn weights.   Anyway – I promised you tips….. here goes.   The last set of tips focussed on garment selection.  This list is more about what to do when you get your garments home and you need to do the unravelling!   If you missed the first set of tips you can see them here – Yarn Salvage #1

Yarn Salvage Tips#2 – where to start unravelling

1. Firstly spend some time getting to know the garment.   Look at every seam and pull the two joined edges as far apart as possible.   There should be a set of horizontal stitches visible between the two pieces of the garment.   If you are lucky these stitches will be in a slightly different thread but this is not always the case.

2. Side and sleeve seams are the easiest place to start.   Snip through 3 or 4 of those horizontal joining stitches, at one end of the seam but if you’ve chosen the bottom edge, avoid the welt/rib/border.  Instead, start a little higher up.

3. As well as the hole you have created by snipping the horizontal stitches you should be able to see a cut end of yarn.   Pull on this and it might magically unravel the whole seam.   If it doesn’t, go to the other end of the same seam and try again.

4. Most seams will unravel as described above if you persevere long enough.   Beware of fluffy yarns however.   Fluffy yarns need a lot of pulling and sometimes scissor work to prise them apart.

5. If all else fails, it might be necessary to snip all horizontal stitches but this is time taking and risky.    It is very easy to snip part of the knitting which would mean you end up with smaller balls of recovered yarn and more ends to deal with in your project!

6. Sometimes the tops of sleeves and neck areas, particularly on fronts of jumpers, call for the use of scissors.   There is no point in spending ages unpicking these areas just to finish up with very short lengths of yarn.    Just cut across the knitting so that you have a reasonably long raw edge to start from.

7. Welts/ribs/borders and underarm seam intersections on some garments can be huge time wasting areas to deal with.   No matter how long you take or how careful you are, there will be cuts to the knitting in those areas.   Consider just cutting those nasty lumpy seams away with out even trying to unravel them.

8. Beware the double ball knitting demon!!   There are some commercial machines that have two balls of yarn on the go in production.    The balls are used to knit alternate rows.   This means when you are unravelling you will have two balls of yarn to wind – swapping between them every row.    You cannot know this before you unravel, at least we haven’t worked out a way to detect it yet…. but be prepared to deal with it if it occurs.

9. Take a view on whether to unravel ribbing at the neck and elsewhere.   Sometimes it is worth the effort, sometimes not.

10. Finally, it is worth saving every scrap of cut away area or rib/welt/border until you have finished the project you are using the yarn for.    You never know whether you will run out of yarn and just need a tiny bit more.  If this happens, all the bits that were too time consuming to deal with suddenly become worthwhile!!

And that is it for now.    I have a final post in this series for you next week.   In that post I will cover what we do with the yarn we recover in order to prepare it for re-use.

Happy recycling!

Annie 🙂

Yarn salvage

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Hello, I am here to share my latest obsession!    Getting lots of yarn for very little money through yarn salvage and recycling…….. what’s not to like?!

This project started with me worrying about the cost of the yarn I am using to develop projects and patterns for the blog.   Even using cheaper yarns like my well loved Drops Paris, the cost mounts up when you are making a large blanket.   Crochet seems to ‘eat’ far more yarn than knitting, or is that just me?

I gave some thought to sources of cheap yarn and began to wonder about Charity shops/Thrift stores and yarn salvage.  

Yarn Salvage and recycle!

After a bit of research I can tell you that woollen/knitted garments typically cost between £2 and £5 in these outlets.   If the yarn could be salvaged that would be quite a lot of yarn for a very low cost.   One problem is that it is the wrong season currently with warmer temperatures shops are not selling much knitwear but we still managed to find some candidate garments.

I say we because I decided to rope my Mum into this project.   I remember from my childhood that she really enjoys undoing knots and taffles.   Turns out Mum also quite likes rummaging through Charity/Thrift shops for bargain items of knitwear!   A knitter herself for many years Mum understands the construction of garments.   This is a big help when choosing pieces for yarn salvage.

We are now some way into our project.    Mum has sourced some 15 garments and we have learned which types work best and the types to avoid.    Here are our tips for garment selection.

TOP TIPS for Garment Selection when Recycling yarn

1. Look at the washing label – that gives you the yarn type, % composition wool, acrylic etc.  This info is normally on the reverse of the label

2. Inspect the seams.  The shoulders will normally be overlocked (zigzag stitching over both joined edges on the inside of the seam).   This isn’t a problem but if you see this type of seam elsewhere on the garment this usually means the knitted fabric has been cut and joined which means there will be a break in the yarn on every row.   This gives very short lengths of yarn.   Avoid!

3. Unless you fall in love with a particular yarn, go for jumpers rather than jackets/cardigans.  Jumpers are normally easier to unpick.   Jackets and cardigans can be very difficult to deal with where the front band is attached and again are sometimes cut, resulting in short lengths of yarn.

4. Look at the texture.   Unravelling thicker yarn is generally easier than the finer ones.

5. Large garments often cost the same as smaller ones as pricing tends to be per garment.   The larger the garment the greater the quantity of yarn you can recover!

Read on for more tips on garment selection

6. Charity shops are seasonal.   Many will not display knitted garments in summer but it is always worth a look.   Lighter weight items will probably still be available.

7. One you have a stock, bear in mind the colours and weight of your yarns – look for items you can combine.

8. Shops have sales.    Even though these outlets are incredibly cheap to start with there are times when they discount.   There are also sometimes discount rails where items have been in store for a time and not sold.   Keep an eye out for sales!

9. Make sure you are looking in the right kind of shop.   Shops selling vintage or retro garments will be selecting stock based on the style and age of the garment and will be charging a much higher price than the average Charity Store.

10. Do not be put off by the style of a garment.   You will not be wearing it!  An item that is not attracting buyers in its current form might be made of very attractive yarn!

Recovering the yarn

We also learnt how best to recycle the yarn and to work out what to do with the yarn we recovered.   I will cover these in a later post.

The first few garments we bought are shown in the photos below.    When you start to take the garments apart you have to be very careful not to snip the yarn.   However, if you do snip the yarn in error it just gives shorter lengths or smaller balls which can still be used – depending on the project you select.

first garment for yarn salvage project
second garment for yarn salvage project
third garment for yarn salvage project

Yarn Salvage – Unpicking the garments

The first garment we unpicked was the flecked cardigan.   This one gave me the inspiration for a blanket project.    We picked creams and browns to go with it and unpicked the other two garments shown.    These photos show the quantity of balled yarn we ended up with.   More than 1kg of yarn for £6, not bad eh? On the subject of money a bit of small print I am obliged to share. Adverts and banners in this post are affiliate links. If you click on them I might receive a small payment which supports my blog and allows me to keep posting. Right – on to the interesting stuff. CHEAP YARN and free patterns!!

yarn salvage project - recycled yarn
yarn salvage project more recycled yarn
recycled yarn from yarn salvage project

The yarn is more or less Aran weight.   I will include more on how to identify the weight in the next post.   I used to have an obsession with knitting cabled sweaters so have a lot of oddments of plain aran yarn in my stash.    Some of the oddments were in similar colours to the yellow/orange flecks in the ‘inspiration’ yarn.   I put these oddments from my stash with the salvaged yarn to give me a large enough quantity to produce a blanket.

Yarn Salvage – Using the recycled yarn!

Next in my yarn salvage project, I came up with a block pattern that I can scale up and down to make three different sizes of square.   The pattern(s) are shown at the bottom of the post.    These are some of the blocks I have completed so far.

sample squares from salvaged yarn

Finally, turning this blanket into a whole family project, my husband designed a layout for the blocks.

blanket layout of different sizes of recycled yarn squares

Here are the patterns I am using for the three sizes of block.  I might need to amend these when it comes to stitching up if the weights of the yarn result in size differences.   I will either block them to the correct size or add additional rows to increase the size!   The change of colour instruction in these patterns shows you how I am working – you can change colour whenever you like or make the blocks solid colour.   It really depends on the yarn you have from your own yarn salvage project.

Instructions in UK terms – please SCROLL DOWN for US terms

Large Square – UK terms

1st round – make a magic loop, 2Ch, 9Dc slip stitch to join to the start point
2nd round – Ch3, 2Tr in each stitch, Tr, slip stitch to join to the start point
Change colour
3rd round – Ch2, Dc in each stitch (19), slip stitch to join to the start point
4th round – Ch3, 2xTr cluster, Ch1, (3Tr cluster Ch1)x 19. Slip stitch to join to the start point
5th round – Ch2, 3HTr, (2Tr, DTr, chain 3, DTr, 2Tr, 4HTr) x 3, 2Tr, DTr, chain 3, DTr, 2Tr, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
6th round – Ch2, Htr round, 2HTr, 1Ch 2HTr, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
7th round – Ch2, Tr round 2Tr, 1Ch, 2Tr in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
8th round – Ch2, Htr round, 2HTr 1Ch 2HTr, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
9th round – Ch2, Tr round 2Tr, 1Ch, 2Tr in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
10th round – Ch2, Htr round, 2HTr, 1Ch, HTr, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
11th round – Ch2, Tr round 2Tr, 1Ch, 2Tr in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
12th round – Ch2, Htr round, 2HTr, 1Ch, 2HTr, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
13th round – Ch2, Tr round 2Tr, 1Ch, 2Tr in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
14th round – Ch2, Htr round, 2HTr, 1Ch, 2HTr, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
15th round – Ch2, Tr round 2Tr, 1Ch, 2Tr in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
16th round – Ch2, Htr round, 2HTr, 1Ch, 2HTr, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
17th round – Ch2, Htr round, 2HTr, 1Ch, 2HTr, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.

Medium sized square – UK terms

1st round – Make a magic loop, 2Ch, 9Dc slip stitch to join to the start point
2nd round – Ch3, 2Tr in each stitch, Tr, slip stitch to join to the start point
Change colour
3rd round – Ch2, Dc in each stitch (19), slip stitch to join to the start point
4th round – Ch3, 2xTr cluster, Ch1, (3Tr cluster Ch1)x 19. Slip stitch to join to the start point.
5th round – Ch2, 3HTr, (2Tr, DTr, chain 3, DTr, 2Tr, 4HTr) x 3, 2Tr, DTr, chain 3, DTr, 2Tr, slip stitch to join to the start point.
6th round – Ch2, Htr round, 2HTr, 1Ch, 2HTr, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
7th round – Ch2, Htr round, 2HTr, 1Ch, 2HTr, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
8th round – Ch2, Tr round 2Tr, 1Ch, 2Tr in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
9th round – Ch2, Htr round, 2HTr, 1Ch, 2HTr, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.

Small Square – UK terms

1st round – Make a magic loop, 3Ch, 15Tr, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
2nd round – Ch3, 2xTr cluster, Ch1, (3Tr cluster Ch1)x 15, slip stitch to join to the start point.
3rd round – Ch2, HTr, (2Tr, DTr, Ch3, DTr, 2Tr, 2HTr,) x 3,  2Tr, DTr, Ch3, DTr, 2Tr, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
4th round – Ch2 work Dc along each side, 2Dc, 2Ch, 2Dc in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.

Instructions in US terms – please SCROLL UP for UK terms

Large Square – US terms

1st round – make a magic loop, 2Ch, 9Sc slip stitch to join to the start point
2nd round – Ch3, 2Dc in each stitch, Dc, slip stitch to join to the start point
Change Colour
3rd round – Ch2, Sc in each stitch (19), slip stitch to join to the start point
4th round – Ch3, 2xDc cluster, ch1, (3Dc cluster ch1)x 19. Slip stitch to join to the start point
5th round – Ch2, 3Hdc, (2Dc, Tr, chain 3, Tr, 2Dc, 4Hdc) x 3, 2Dc, Tr, chain 3, Tr, 2Dc, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
6th round – Ch2, HDc round, 2HDc 1ch 2HDc, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
7th round – Ch2, Dc round 2Dc, 1ch, 2Dc in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
8th round – Ch2, HDc round, 2HDc 1ch 2HDc, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
9th round – Ch2, Dc round 2Dc, 1ch, 2Dc in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
10th round – Ch2, HDc round, 2HDc 1Ch 2HDc, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
11th round – Ch2, Dc round 2Dc, 1ch, 2Dc in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
12th round – Ch2, HDc round, 2HDc 1Ch 2HDc, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
13th round – Ch2, Dc round 2Dc, 1ch, 2Dc in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
14th round – Ch2, HDc round, 2HDc 1Ch 2HDc, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
15th round – Ch2, Dc round 2Dc, 1ch, 2Dc in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
16th round – Ch2, HDc round, 2HDc 1Ch 2HDc, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
17th round – Ch2, HDc round, 2HDc 1Ch 2HDc, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.

Medium sized square – US terms

1st round – Make a magic loop, 2Ch, 9Sc slip stitch to join to the start point
2nd round – Ch3, 2Dc in each stitch, Dc, slip stitch to join to the start point
Change colour
3rd round – Ch2, Sc in each stitch (19), slip stitch to join to the start point
4th round – Ch3, 2xDc cluster, ch1, (3Dc cluster Ch1)x 19. Slip stitch to join to the start point.
5th round – Ch2, 3HDc, (2Dc, Tr, chain 3, Tr, 2Dc, 4HDc) x 3, 2Dc, Tr, chain 3, Tr, 2Dc, slip stitch to join to the start point.
6th round – Ch2, HDc round, 2HDc, 1Ch, 2HDc, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
7th round – Ch2, HDc round, 2HDc, 1Ch, 2HDc, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
8th round – Ch2, Dc round 2Dc, 1Ch, 2Dc in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.
9th round – Ch2, HDc round, 2HDc, 1Ch, 2HDc, in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.

 

Small Square – US terms

 

1st round – Make a magic loop, 3Ch, 15Dc, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
2nd round – Ch3, 2xDc cluster, Ch1, (3Dc cluster Ch1)x 15, slip stitch to join to the start point.
3rd round – Ch2, HDc, (2Dc, Tr, Ch3, Tr, 2Dc, 2HDc,) x 3,  2Dc, Tr, ch3, Tr, 2Dc, slip stitch to join to the start point.
Change colour
4th round – Ch2 work Sc along each side, 2Sc, 2Ch, 2Sc in each corner, slip stitch to join to the start point.

And that is it from me.   I hope you enjoy rooting around for knit wear to recycle and yarn salvage!   Please share your stories.    Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Daisy bag

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This bag was designed on my daily commute.   I love the fresh look with white cotton and picked the colours my daughter liked but the colour way is entirely up to you!

The finished bag measures 10 inches by 7 inches or 25cm by 18cm.   I put on one shoulder strap but it would easily convert to two smaller handles if you prefer.   I have included instructions for both.

The yarn I have used here is Drops Muskat a mercerized cotton which gives great stitch definition and a firm finish that should not stretch with use.   It works up on a 4mm hook and is very good quality/value.   I paid £1.45 per 50g ball.

Daisy Bag instructions – UK terms  (SCROLL DOWN FOR US TERMS!)

The pattern uses a 4mm hook and three colours of yarn.   For the example in the photo I used:

Yarn A – Drops Muskat – colour 19 – Light Grey

Yarn B – Drops Muskat – colour 18 – White

Yarn C – Drops Muskat – colour 06 – Light Pink

Starting with Yarn A – Light Grey

Base – Chain 5 stitches, slip stitch into the first chain to form a loop.  Chain 35.   slip stitch into the fifth stitch from the hook to form a second loop.

1st round – This is the only real fiddly bit so it is worth taking your time.  Chain 2, DC 30 along the straight chain.  Take care not to let the chain twist as you work it.   Don’t worry if you have to pull it out a couple of times to get it right (I did!).   Work 6DC into the end loop, DC 30 along the straight chain working into the DC’s from the first part of the round.   This gives a strong bottom to the bag.   your work should look like the photo’s below.   Finally – work 6 DC into the end loop and join with a slip stitch to your start point for the round.

2nd round – Chain 2, DC 31, work 2DC into each of the middle four of the six DCs you worked into the loop of the base.  DC 32, work 2DC into the middle four of the six DCs you worked into the second loop of the base.  1 DC, slip stitch to join to the start point of the round.

3rd round – Chain 2, DC 32, work 2DC into the next 6 stitches, DC 35, work 2 DC into the next 6 stitches, 1DC, slip stitch to join to the start point of the round.

The base of the bag is now complete!!  If you would like a bigger base – repeat the row above, adjusting the increase round the ends of the base to allow the work to lie flat.

4th round – Chain 2.   DC into every stitch BUT – only pick up the back of the stitch.  See photo below.   This creates a line that will form the edge of the bottom of the bag.

5th round – Chain 2, Tr into each stitch on the row below.   Slip stitch to join to the top of the three chains that started the round.   Note – lots of patterns would say to chain three before a round  of Trebles but I find that chain 2 works better for me and gives a neater finish.   It might be worth trying both versions to see what suits you best.

6th round – Chain 2, DC into each stitch on the row below.   Slip stitch to join to the top of the two chains that started the round.

7th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

8th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

9th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

10th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

Change colour!   Working with Yarn B – White –   I normally try to join in the yarn on the end of the bag so that the start of each row is not in the middle of the flat part where they are more visible.

11th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

12th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

13th round – This round creates the ‘holes’ that we will later weave the bands through.  Chain 4, (miss one stitch and work Treble into the next, chain 1)  repeat to end of round.  Join with a slip stitch to the third of the four chains that started the round.

14th round – Chain 2, work one  DC into the ‘hole’ on the previous row.  Continue by working 2DC into each of the ‘holes’ created in the previous round.  Join with a slip stitch to the second of the two chains that started the round.

15th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

16th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

17th round – repeat the 13th round, creating the holes.

18th round – repeat the 14th round working DCs into the ‘holes’.

19th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

20th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

Change colour!   Working with Yarn C – Light Pink

21st round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

22nd round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

23rd round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

24th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

25th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

26th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

27th round – Chain 2, Htr into each stitch on the row below.   Join with a slip stitch to the second of the two chains that started the row.

28th round – Slip stitch into each stitch on the round below to create the decorative edge.   Join to the start point with a slip stitch and this completes the main part of the bag.

Creating the ‘ribbons’ that weave through the bag.

To create the two ribbons that you will weave in and out of the ‘holes’ in the bag, first take yarn A – Light Grey and make a chain 102 stitches long.

Slip stitch into the third stitch from the hook and keep going with a slip stitch into each chain until you get back to the start point.    Pull both ends through the loop on the hook to finish off, leaving the two ends which you will use to stitch up the ribbon.

Work the second ribbon in the same way but in yarn C – Light Pink.

Creating the flower decorations.

First Flower – Working with Yarn A – Light Grey.   

1st round – Make a magic loop then Chain 2, DC 11.  Join to form a disc.

2nd round – (Chain 6 slip stitch into the row below at the base of the chain.   Slip stitch into next stitch) repeat six times.   This will give you a disc with six chain stitch loops that will form the basis of the petals.

Change colour! – working with Yarn C – Light Pink

3rd round – (working into one of the chain stitch loops, 3 DC, 1 Htr, 1Tr, 1HTr, 3DC.  work one slip stitch into the stitch on the row below between the chain stitch petals), repeat six times until you have a full set of six petals.   You have a finished flower!

Second Flower – Now work the flower again switching round the two yarn colours.

Assemble the bag by slotting the ribbon through the ‘holes’.    I chose to put the Pink ribbon closest to the bottom and near to the Grey section of the bag.    If you weave the ribbon in and out of the holes over and under the Trebles that form the holes you should find you come back to the start with two ‘unders’ side by side.    This is probably easier to see in the photo below than it is to understand my explanation!

Join the two ends of ribbon at this point and then attach the flower over the top of the join, between the two places that the ribbon was woven under the bars.    I used the flower with the Light Pink petals at the bottom of the bag next to the section that was made in Light Grey.   ie use the flower with petals in Yarn C against the ribbon in Yarn C.

Finally – Adding Handles or Strap.  

To finish the bag you need to decide whether you would like a shoulder strap or twin handles.    The start point for both is to create ribbons as above.    Each strap or handle needs three ribbons which are plaited.

The ribbon length I used to create the shoulder strap was 202 chain.

The ribbon length I used to create each handle was 82 chain.

Work three ribbons – one in each colour.    Attach the three ribbons to each other at one end.   Note – if you use two of the ribbons the same way around and one the opposite way round you will have ends of yarn at both ends of the plait, this will help with the stitching up.   

 

Using the ends of yarn from each ribbon stitch the handles into the bag – and you are done!!   

I hope you enjoyed this pattern.   Please let me know.    US terms follow.

Daisy Bag instructions – US terms

The pattern uses a 4mm hook and three colours of yarn.   For the example in the photo I used:

Yarn A – Drops Muskat – colour 19 – Light Grey

Yarn B – Drops Muskat – colour 18 – White

Yarn C – Drops Muskat – colour 06 – Light Pink

Starting with Yarn A – Light Grey

Base – Chain 5 stitches, slip stitch into the first chain to form a loop.  Chain 35.   slip stitch into the fifth stitch from the hook to form a second loop.

1st round – This is the only real fiddly bit so it is worth taking your time.  Chain 2, SC 30 along the straight chain.  Take care not to let the chain twist as you work it.   Don’t worry if you have to pull it out a couple of times to get it right (I did!).   Work 6SC into the end loop, SC 30 along the straight chain working into the SC’s from the first part of the round.   This gives a strong bottom to the bag.   your work should look like the photo’s below.   Finally – work 6 SC into the end loop and join with a slip stitch to your start point for the round.

2nd round – Chain 2, SC 31, work 2SC into each of the middle four of the six SCs you worked into the loop of the base.  SC 32, work 2SC into the middle four of the six SCs you worked into the second loop of the base.  1 SC, slip stitch to join to the start point of the round.

3rd round – Chain 2, SC 32, work 2SC into the next 6 stitches, SC 35, work 2 SC into the next 6 stitches, 1SC, slip stitch to join to the start point of the round.

The base of the bag is now complete!!  If you would like a bigger base – repeat the row above, adjusting the increase round the ends of the base to allow the work to lie flat.

4th round – Chain 2.   SC into every stitch BUT – only pick up the back of the stitch.  See photo below.   This creates a line that will form the edge of the bottom of the bag.

5th round – Chain 2, DC into each stitch on the row below.   Slip stitch to join to the top of the three chains that started the round.   Note – lots of patterns would say to chain three before a round  of DC but I find that chain 2 works better for me and gives a neater finish.   It might be worth trying both versions to see what suits you best.

6th round – Chain 2, SC into each stitch on the row below.   Slip stitch to join to the top of the two chains that started the round.

7th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

8th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

9th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

10th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

Change colour!   Working with Yarn B – White –   I normally try to join in the yarn on the end of the bag so that the start of each row is not in the middle of the flat part where they are more visible.

11th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

12th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

13th round – This round creates the ‘holes’ that we will later weave the bands through.  Chain 4, (miss one stitch and work DC into the next, chain 1)  repeat to end of round.  Join with a slip stitch to the third of the four chains that started the round.

14th round – Chain 2, work one  SC into the ‘hole’ on the previous row.  Continue by working 2SC into each of the ‘holes’ created in the previous round.  Join with a slip stitch to the second of the two chains that started the round.

15th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

16th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

17th round – repeat the 13th round, creating the holes.

18th round – repeat the 14th round working SCs into the ‘holes’.

19th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

20th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

Change colour!   Working with Yarn C – Light Pink

21st round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

22nd round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

23rd round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

24th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

25th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

26th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

27th round – Chain 2, HDC into each stitch on the row below.   Join with a slip stitch to the second of the two chains that started the row.

28th round – Slip stitch into each stitch on the round below to create the decorative edge.   Join to the start point with a slip stitch and this completes the main part of the bag.

Creating the ‘ribbons’ that weave through the bag.

To create the two ribbons that you will weave in and out of the ‘holes’ in the bag, first take yarn A – Light Grey and make a chain 102 stitches long.

Slip stitch into the third stitch from the hook and keep going with a slip stitch into each chain until you get back to the start point.    Pull both ends through the loop on the hook to finish off, leaving the two ends which you will use to stitch up the ribbon.

Work the second ribbon in the same way but in yarn C – Light Pink.

Creating the flower decorations.

First Flower – Working with Yarn A – Light Grey.

1st round – Make a magic loop then Chain 2, SC 11.  Join to form a disc.

2nd round – (Chain 6 slip stitch into the row below at the base of the chain.   Slip stitch into next stitch) repeat six times.   This will give you a disc with six chain stitch loops that will form the basis of the petals.

Change colour! – working with Yarn C – Light Pink

3rd round – (working into one of the chain stitch loops, 3 SC, 1 HDC, 1DC, 1HDC, 3SC.  work one slip stitch into the stitch on the row below between the chain stitch petals), repeat six times until you have a full set of six petals.   You have a finished flower!

Second Flower – Now work the flower again switching round the two yarn colours.

Assemble the bag by slotting the ribbon through the ‘holes’.    I chose to put the Pink ribbon closest to the bottom and near to the Grey section of the bag.    If you weave the ribbon in and out of the holes over and under the DCs that form the holes you should find you come back to the start with two ‘unders’ side by side.    This is probably easier to see in the photo below than it is to understand my explanation!

Join the two ends of ribbon at this point and then attach the flower over the top of the join, between the two places that the ribbon was woven under the bars.    I used the flower with the Light Pink petals at the bottom of the bag next to the section that was made in Light Grey.   ie use the flower with petals in Yarn C against the ribbon in Yarn C.

Finally – Adding Handles or Strap.

To finish the bag you need to decide whether you would like a shoulder strap or twin handles.    The start point for both is to create ribbons as above.    Each strap or handle needs three ribbons which are plaited.

The ribbon length I used to create the shoulder strap was 202 chain.

The ribbon length I used to create each handle was 82 chain.

Work three ribbons – one in each colour.    Attach the three ribbons to each other at one end.   Note – if you use two of the ribbons the same way around and one the opposite way round you will have ends of yarn at both ends of the plait, this will help with the stitching up.

Using the ends of yarn from each ribbon stitch the handles into the bag – and you are done!!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern.   Please let me know.

Happy Crocheting!

Annie 🙂