crochet

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block

February 28, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

Hello and thank you for visiting my little crochet blog. This is the latest of my bunny themed patterns which were written with Easter in mind but actually work at any time of year. This bunny and carrot crochet block measures 6 inches/15 centimetres square when worked in chunky yarn. The pattern works in any weight of yarn but you need to check that the tension has the same proportions (ratio of rows to stitches) if you want it to come up square shaped. Worst case you will create oblong shaped blocks which might be fine too ?

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block – Materials

The block pictured here was worked in Stylecraft Special Chunky. If you have read any of my recent posts you will know this is my current go to yarn. There is a fab range of colours which you can see here at woolwarehouse which is where I normally buy all my yarn. The block uses four colours a base colour which I will call Yarn A then a colour for the bunnies Yarn B (for bunny). Finally, two colours for the carrots which I will call Yarn T for the carrot tops and Yarn C (for carrot) for the carrots themselves.

The colours I have used in the blocks in these photos are:

White – Yarn A
Mocha – Yarn B
Spice – Yarn C
Lime – Yarn T

This yarn uses a 6mm hook which means it grows nice and quickly! In the worked examples I carry the yarn up the side of the work and you might notice that this is visible through the white. To avoid this, if you don’t mind a few more ends, you can break the yarn and re-join. You will need to work chain in Yarn A on the bunny and carrot rows though to provide the framework for the block.

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block – Instructions with UK crochet terms (for US terms please scroll down)

Foundation Chain

Each row of this block will have a starting chain and 21 stitches. The bunny and carrot patterns use a repeat of three stitches with a one stitch gap and we will have an additional stitch at the edge to make the spacing work. Chain 24 stitches for the foundation row.

First Row

Starting into the fourth stitch from the hook, work a row of DC. This should mean a row of 21DC will take you to the end of the chain. Chain 2 and turn the work.

Second Row

Our starting chain of 2 forms the first stitch of the row so miss one and starting into the second stitch of the row of DCs again work a row of 21 DC then Chain 2 and turn the work. If you find it is taking you more than 21DC to complete the row, you might be starting into the first rather than second stitch.

Third and Fourth Rows

Repeat rows 1 and 2 so that you have four rows of DC with lovely straight edges! At the end of the fourth row do not work the 2 Chain stitches. Turn the work and we will put those two chain stitches at the start of the fifth row.

Fifth Row

As you work the first of your two chain to start the row, take up yarn B and lay it across yarn A behind the hook so that when you work the chain, Yarn B is caught up and joined into the work. Work 2CH then one DC in Yarn A carrying Yarn B along the top of the work as shown. Pick up Yarn B and work the bunny ear stitch which you will find in the posts via the links below.

Crochet Bunny Stitch – UK crochet terms

Crochet Bunny Stitch – US crochet terms

The bunny ear stitch has a four stitch repeat which should give you five sets of ears then a final 2DC in Yarn A to complete the row.

If you are working these blocks as shown with the minimum of ends and do not mind the appearance of the carried yarn then break off yarn A at the end of this row and work 4 chain in Yarn B.

If however, you are not carrying yarn then break off Yarn B and work 3 chain in Yarn A and one in yarn B ready to start the row of bunny bodies.

Sixth Row

Work a row of bunny bodies as shown in the Bunny Stitch post. This row is worked entirely in Yarn B if you are carrying the yarn. At the end of the row CH5 and slip stitch to join to the end of the row below and break off Yarn B

If you are not carrying the yarn then join in Yarn B for each bunny and break off Yarn B after each bunny body, working the three chain between in Yarn A. At the end of the row you will need to make 5CH in Yarn A and join to the row below then break off Yarn A.

Seventh Row

Remember to turn the work so that you are on the right side. The tail of the starting chain should be on your left as you look at the block. Join in Yarn A to the gap beside the last bunny and working around the chain stitches make 2CH then 2DC. Into each of the gaps between bunny bodies work 4DC until the end of the row when you need to work 3DC into the final gap. Chain 2 and turn the work.

Eighth Row

As with Row 4 work a row of DC starting into the second stitch and it should take you 21DC to complete the row. Turn the work ready to add in Yarn T for the carrot tops.

Ninth Row

Laying Yarn T over Yarn A work one Chain to join in the yarn then work another two chain in Yarn A. Work 1Htr into the second stitch on the row below, then * work one chain in Yarn T. The carrot top is a two stitch treble cluster.

Starting the carrot tops — Start each carrot top with a chain in Yarn T

Wrap Yarn T around the hook and put the hook into the third stitch on the row then wrap the yarn round again and pull back through. Next, wrap Yarn T around again and pull through the first two loops on the hook as though you were working a Tr.

Working the first stitch of the carrot top — working the first stitch of the cluster

Wrap Yarn T around the hook and put the hook into the fourth stitch on the row and again wrap Yarn T around pull back through, wrap Yarn T round again and pull through the first two loops on the hook. Finally wrap Yarn T round the hook again and pull back through all the loops on the hook.

final stage of carrot top — Carrot top just before the final yarn round and pull through to form the cluster

Gently pull Yarn A and Yarn T to ensure the tension is good then pick up Yarn A and work 2 HTR. Repeat from * to the end of the row.

This row sounds complicated but once you get into the swing of it it is actually quite a quick row to work. I will aim to put up a video once I can work out the technology but in the meantime I hope the photographs help!

At the end of this row break off Yarn T

Tenth Row – wrong side of the work

This row presents the same choice as with the bunny bodies row. It is similar in that we will be working a row of TR clusters this time in Yarn C.

If you are carrying the yarn and ok with the way that that looks then you need to break off Yarn A, join in Yarn C and work 4CH. Make the carrots by working a four treble cluster in the same way you worked the cluster for the bunny bodies. This time the first stitch goes into the first stitch on the previous row in Yarn T as shown below.

adding the carrot stage 1 — adding the first of the cluster of stitches that make the carrot

The second and third stitches go into the next and larger stitch in Yarn T on the row below. Finally work the last Tr of the cluster into the gap beneath the chain stitch in Yarn T just on the other side of the carrot top. Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull back through all the stitches till you have one loop on the hook.

four stitch cluster carrot — four stitches that form the carrot. Just before final yarn round and pull through

Work three chain and start the next carrot! At the end of the row CH4 and join to the end of the previous row.

chain stitch after carrot stitch — chain 3 between each carrot

If you are not carrying the yarn then work 4CH in Yarn A and join in Yarn C separately for each carrot, working the 3CH between carrots in Yarn A. As I said, this method will result in A LOT of ends to finish off!

Eleventh Row

Work this row as Row 7 again making sure you are on the right side of the work.

Row 12 – 14

Work these in Yarn A starting with 2CH then work 21DC which should complete the row.

Row 15 – 16

Repeat rows five and six to add another row of bunnies.

Row 17 and 18

Repeat rows seven and eight.

Row 19

Work a final row of DC with 2CH to start the row. Leave Yarn A attached and you are ready to work the border.

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block – Border worked on the right side.

First round

CH2 then turn the block so that the bunnies are running vertically and you are working along the side of the block. Along the side of the block work 21 DC evenly spaced along the piece. As a guide you should have worked 10 DC by the time you are alongside the middle of the carrot row.

At the end of the row chain 2 turn the block through 90 degrees and work 22 DC into the starting row, ending the row with 2CH.

Turn the block again and work 22 DC spaced evenly along the other second side of the block. At the end of the row CH2 and work 22 DC along the top of the block then CH2 and slip stitch to join to the starting chain.

Second Round

Work a round of DC with 2CH at each corner. Start the round with 2CH and end with a slip stitch to join.

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block – Instructions with US crochet terms (for UK terms please scroll up)

Foundation Chain

First Row

Starting into the fourth stitch from the hook, work a row of SC. This should mean a row of 21SC will take you to the end of the chain. Chain 2 and turn the work.

Second Row

Our starting chain of 2 forms the first stitch of the row so miss one and starting into the second stitch of the row of SCs again work a row of 21 SC then Chain 2 and turn the work. If you find it is taking you more than 21SC to complete the row, you might be starting into the first rather than second stitch.

Third and Fourth Rows

Repeat rows 1 and 2 so that you have four rows of SC with lovely straight edges! At the end of the fourth row do not work the 2 Chain stitches. Turn the work and we will put those two chain stitches at the start of the fifth row.

Fifth Row

As you work the first of your two chain to start the row, take up yarn B and lay it across yarn A behind the hook so that when you work the chain, Yarn B is caught up and joined into the work. Work 2CH then one SC in Yarn A carrying Yarn B along the top of the work as shown. Pick up Yarn B and work the bunny ear stitch which you will find in the posts via the links below.

Crochet Bunny Stitch – US crochet terms

The bunny ear stitch has a four stitch repeat which should give you five sets of ears then a final 2SC in Yarn A to complete the row.

If you are working these blocks as shown with the minimum of ends and do not mind the appearance of the carried yarn then break off yarn A at the end of this row and work 4 chain in Yarn B.

If however, you are not carrying yarn then break off Yarn B and work 3 chain in Yarn A and one in yarn B ready to start the row of bunny bodies.

Sixth Row

Seventh Row

Remember to turn the work so that you are on the right side. The tail of the starting chain should be on your left as you look at the block. Join in Yarn A to the gap beside the last bunny and working around the chain stitches make 2CH then 2SC. Into each of the gaps between bunny bodies work 4SC until the end of the row when you need to work 3SC into the final gap. Chain 2 and turn the work.

Eighth Row

As with Row 4 work a row of SC starting into the second stitch and it should take you 21SC to complete the row. Turn the work ready to add in Yarn T for the carrot tops.

Ninth Row

Laying Yarn T over Yarn A work one Chain to join in the yarn then work another two chain in Yarn A. Work 1HDC into the second stitch on the row below, then * work one chain in Yarn T. The carrot top is a two stitch DC cluster.

Gently pull Yarn A and Yarn T to ensure the tension is good then pick up Yarn A and work 2 HDC. Repeat from * to the end of the row.

At the end of this row break off Yarn T

Tenth Row – wrong side of the work

This row presents the same choice as with the bunny bodies row. It is similar in that we will be working a row of 4DC clusters this time in Yarn C.

The second and third stitches go into the next and larger stitch in Yarn T on the row below. Finally work the last DC of the cluster into the gap beneath the chain stitch in Yarn T just on the other side of the carrot top. Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull back through all the stitches till you have one loop on the hook.

Work three chain and start the next carrot! At the end of the row CH4 and join to the end of the previous row.

Eleventh Row

Work this row as Row 7 again making sure you are on the right side of the work.

Row 12 – 14

Work these in Yarn A starting with 2CH then work 21SC which should complete the row.

Row 15 – 16

Repeat rows five and six to add another row of bunnies.

Row 17 and 18

Repeat rows seven and eight.

Row 19

Work a final row of SC with 2CH to start the row. Leave Yarn A attached and you are ready to work the border.

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block – Border worked on the right side.

First round

CH2 then turn the block so that the bunnies are running vertically and you are working along the side of the block. Along the side of the block work 21 SC evenly spaced along the piece. As a guide you should have worked 10 SC by the time you are alongside the middle of the carrot row.

At the end of the row chain 2 turn the block through 90 degrees and work 22 DC into the starting row, ending the row with 2CH.

Turn the block again and work 22 SC spaced evenly along the other second side of the block. At the end of the row CH2 and work 22 SC along the top of the block then CH2 and slip stitch to join to the starting chain.

Second Round

Work a round of SC with 2CH at each corner. Start the round with 2CH and end with a slip stitch to join.

There you have it – a completed Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block. I hope you like it. I plan to use it in a baby blanket so will be trialling it in DK and also in an Easter throw.

If you like the bunny stitch there are a few other patterns I have already put out that use this stitch. These include headbands and hats with a scarf and beanie hat to follow. Please join my mailing list or check back in here another day to find my latest free patterns. Happy crocheting!

Annie ?

Free crochet pattern for Bunny Headbands

February 18, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

Hello and welcome to my latest free crochet pattern for bunny headbands. I have been working on lots of projects using the bunny stitch that I developed during January. My main focus was to create something that people would like to make over the Easter holidays but actually bunnies are fun all year round! There are other free project patterns to follow so please sign up to my mailing list or check back in to find those.

This pattern uses Stylecraft Special Chunky yarn which is very good quality for the price and available in a wide range of colours. Projects work up quickly on a 6mm hook. You can see the range of yarn here at Woolwarehouse which is where I buy all my yarn 🙂

The pattern is shown in two sizes – Adult which measures c 21 inches by 2.5 inches (depending on your tension) and child which measures c 18 inches by 2.5 inches

Instructions

This pattern will use the free stitch pattern that I posted earlier. There are two links to this pattern, one for UK and one for US crochet terms. Please follow the instructions relating to the crochet terms you would like to see!

Note – The pattern is worked in the round and all rows are worked on the right side of the piece with the exception of the bunny bodies row which is worked from the wrong side.

Free crochet pattern for Bunny Headbands – UK terms

Foundation row

For the adult size make a chain of 72 and slip stitch to join to the end of the chain and form a loop.

For the child size make a chain of 60 and slip stitch to join to the end of the chain and form a loop.

Note – when you form the loop with a slip stitch, take care not to twist the chain or you will end up with a bump or twist in your work on later rounds.

Rows 1, 2 and 3

Chain 2 then work a round in DC ending the row with a slip stitch to join to the second of the two starting chain stitches. Check the number of stitches doesn’t grow or reduce as you work. Stitch markers can be a big help with this. You need a multiple of four stitches on each row before you start to add the bunnies. Note the starting chain counts as one stitch.

After three rows of DC you have a band and you are ready to add a row of bunny ears!

Row 4

For this row we will follow the instructions for row 4 in the bunny stitch post which you will find here for UK crochet terms. However, the start of the row is slightly different. Start with 2CH then just one DC before putting in the first ear stitch. This will mean that after the last pair of ears you have one more DC before joining with a slip stitch to complete the round.

TIP – after you work your last pair of ears, do not carry yarn B along, we will be needing it just where it is. You can cut and weave in the end of Yarn A because we will need to rejoin Yarn A after the row of bunny bodies has been added.

Row 5

This round is the only one we will work from the wrong side of the piece. Turn your work inside out and pick up yarn B which should be positioned at the end of the last pair of ears you added.

Chain 3 then work a three Tr cluster into the space below and between the bunny ears. Treat the chain as the first Tr of the four Tr cluster that makes the bunny body so pull the yarn through to leave one loop on the hook after this first bunny. Chain 3 and continue to follow the pattern for row 5 of the bunny stitch.

At the end of the row when you have worked the last bunny, chain 3 and join with a slip stitch to the top of the 3 chain that started the row.

REMEMBER to turn the work back round so that you complete the remaining rows from the right side of the work.

Row 6

Follow the instructions for row 6 of the bunny stitch pattern. ie Join in yarn A to the gap between two bunnies and work two chain then one DC into the same gap. Keeping the tension even, work four DC into the next and every following gap between bunnies until you reach the end of the row where you will need to work two DC and slip stitch to join to the chain stitch that started the row.

Rows 7 and 8

Chain 2 then work a round in DC ending the row with a slip stitch to join to the second of the two starting chain stitches.

And there you are – a finished headband. Just the pesky ends to tie off now 🙂

Free crochet pattern for Bunny Headbands – US terms

Foundation row

For the adult size make a chain of 72 and slip stitch to join to the end of the chain and form a loop.

For the child size make a chain of 60 and slip stitch to join to the end of the chain and form a loop.

Note – when you form the loop with a slip stitch, take care not to twist the chain or you will end up with a bump or twist in your work on later rounds.

Rows 1, 2 and 3

Chain 2 then work a round in SC ending the row with a slip stitch to join to the second of the two starting chain stitches. Check the number of stitches doesn’t grow or reduce as you work. Stitch markers can be a big help with this. You need a multiple of four stitches on each row before you start to add the bunnies. Note the starting chain counts as one stitch.

After three rows of SC you have a band and you are ready to add a row of bunny ears!

Row 4

For this row we will follow the instructions for row 4 in the bunny stitch post which you will find here for US crochet terms. However, the start of the row is slightly different. Start with 2CH then just one SC before putting in the first ear stitch. This will mean that after the last pair of ears you have one more SC before joining with a slip stitch to complete the round.

Row 5

This round is the only one we will work from the wrong side of the piece. Turn your work inside out and pick up yarn B which should be positioned at the end of the last pair of ears you added.

Chain 3 then work a three DC cluster into the space below and between the bunny ears. Treat the chain as the first DC of the four DC cluster that makes the bunny body so pull the yarn through to leave one loop on the hook after this first bunny. Chain 3 and continue to follow the pattern for row 5 of the bunny stitch.

At the end of the row when you have worked the last bunny, chain 3 and join with a slip stitch to the top of the 3 chain that started the row.

REMEMBER to turn the work back round so that you complete the remaining rows from the right side of the work.

Row 6

Follow the instructions for row 6 of the bunny stitch pattern. ie Join in yarn A to the gap between two bunnies and work two chain then one SC into the same gap. Keeping the tension even, work four SC into the next and every following gap between bunnies until you reach the end of the row where you will need to work two SC and slip stitch to join to the chain stitch that started the row.

Rows 7 and 8

Chain 2 then work a round in SC ending the row with a slip stitch to join to the second of the two starting chain stitches.

And there you are – a finished headband. Just the pesky ends to tie off now 🙂

Variations to the free crochet pattern for bunny headbands

There are lots of potential colour options here. You could add stripes of different colour by changing at the start of each round. I recommend you keep a high contrast between the yarn colour you use for the band and the one you use for the bunnies though. I made some samples where the colours were not sufficiently different and the headbands did not look as striking. You couldn’t see the bunnies well from a distance. Of course you might actually prefer it that way – your choice!

Another variation option is to widen the band by adding in a row of Tr (DC in US terms) either side of the bunnies. To do this place the first row of Tr (DC in US terms) between row 1 and 2 above and the second row of Tr (DC in US terms) between the last two rows of DC (SC). So that the pattern after the bunny stitches reads two rounds of DC, one round of Tr and a final row of DC. OR in US terms two rounds of SC, one round of DC and a final row of SC.

My final pattern tweak is that you could work the foundation and first row plus the final row of the headband in the same colour you use for the bunnies. I will add a photo of that version to this post as soon as I have worked one up!

I hope you like this free crochet pattern for bunny headbands. If you would like an add free pattern I will be adding one to my Etsy shop. The headbands are already listed on my shop. Please join my mailing list for more free patterns and crochet love. Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

PS. This hat pattern is coming soon!

Log Cabin Love Blankets

January 31, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

In this post I am sharing the love and making my Log Cabin Love crochet blocks into Log Cabin Love Blankets! I have two suggested designs to share with you and some pics of my blanket as it progresses.

Firstly – if you are starting with this post, you need the link to the block pattern which is here

The first blanket design I am sharing is based on the colours in my original block. In this version I have worked the blocks identically. The yarn is my favourite Stylecraft Special Chunky which you can see here at my favourite UK yarn store – Woolwarehouse.

The colours I have used are as follows: Panels 1 and 2 – White 1001, Panel 3 – Silver 1203, Panel 4 – Cloud Blue 1019, Panel 5 – Graphite 1063, Panel 6 – Aster 1003, Panel 7 – Black 1002 and Panel 8 – Royal 1117.

The hearts themselves are worked in Lipstick 1246.

log cabin love blanket — Log Cabin Love blanket

The second layout I have tried requires a flipped version of the block. You can see the effect that that produces in this picture.

log cabin love blanket v2 — log cabin love blanket with flipped squares

If you would like me to share the pattern for the flipped block then please leave a comment and I will put that version up on this blog.

Edging the log cabin love blanket

For the edging I worked four rows of half Trebles (HDc in US terms) in black then pale blue, white and finally black again. As an additional option you could add a row of small hearts. I am planning to try this and will post additional pictures when I have completed the border.

I hope you enjoy making these log cabin love blankets. Please share pictures of your work if you do use this pattern. I am happy for anyone to use or share my patterns but please include a link back to this blog if you do. Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Hearts and Flowers Scarf

January 31, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

Sharing with you my latest heart based pattern – Hearts and Flowers Scarf. This pattern is based on the new large heart pattern I shared a couple of weeks ago. The pattern uses three sizes of heart but they are actually all the same pattern. To make the different sizes you simply stop after the first, second or third rounds. There are also two sizes of flower 🙂

Materials

The scarf pictured here is made from Stylecraft Special Chunky yarn. The shades used are Lipstick – 1246, Saffron – 1081 and White – 1001. I buy all my yarn from woolwarehouse here in the UK. The flowers and hearts are made using a 6mm crochet hook. TIP – have a smaller sized hook available to use for fiddly bits – more later on this!

You could make this scarf using oddments of any weight of yarn. It would be a great stash busting pattern if you did just use up any scraps you have. You could use a complete mix of colours but I think it would be most effective if you keep one pallet of colours for the hearts and a different pallet of colours for the flowers.

This pattern is ‘free form’ rather than being a specific layout. This means you make lots of hearts and flowers then lay them out as you like them before joining them together to make the scarf.

Start your own Hearts and Flowers Scarf

‘Free Form’ is all very well but you have to know what you are aiming for! There are two options for this. The first option is very simple if you have a scarf you already like the length and width of. Lay that scarf out on a flat surface. Second option, if you don’t have a suitable scarf to base your hearts and flowers scarf on then as a rough guide, a scarf is normally between six and eight inches wide and about as long as you are tall. Cut a template out of newspaper or tape together scrap paper till you have something the size and shape of the scarf you are making.

Whichever your base, the next step is to place on the hearts and flowers in a design you like. Bear in mind that you will need to join them up with a couple of stitches so aim for each shape to touch another in a couple of places without being bent or forced to do so. If you have to bend or stretch a shape to make it fit then you will end up with unwanted bumps and lumps in your scarf.

You could make the hearts and flowers and build the design up as you make them. Or, you could use paper templates to design the scarf first which then tells you how many of each shape you need to make.

Here is a free download which contains outlines of the hearts and flowers in all sizes. You can cut these out and play with shapes until you get the design you want. Note these sizes are representative of the space required only and not accurate versions of the flowers. They are based on my own tension using Stylecraft Special chunky and a 6mm hook. If you are using scraps of different yarns you will need to use your own shapes to make templates.

Hearts and Flowers template (79 downloads)

hearts and flowers scarf layout — laying out the hearts and flowers to design the scarf

Heart and flower patterns

The heart pattern can be found here. To make the three sizes simply finish off after the first, second or third round!

Large flower pattern

First round – in first yarn, make a magic loop, Chain 2 and work six DC (SC in US terms) into the loop. Pull closed and slip stitch into the top of the two chains to form a small disc.

Second round – join a contrast yarn, Chain 2 work a round of DC (Sc in US terms) work 2Dc (Sc in US terms) into the second and 5th stitch and slip stitch to join back to the start point.

Third round – with the wrong side of the disc facing you work 12 Chain then slip stitch into the next stitch. Work 12 chain and slip stitch into the following stitch. Proceed like this until you get back to the start of the round. This should give you 10 ‘petals’ but to be honest, if it gives you 11 or 9 it really doesn’t matter!

Small flower pattern

First round – make a magic loop, Chain 2 and work six DC (SC in US terms) into the loop. Pull closed and slip stitch into the top of the two chains to form a small disc.

Second round – with wrong side facing, chain 9 then slip stitch into the next stitch. Work 9 chain and slip stitch into the following stitch. Proceed like this until you get back to the start of the round. This should give you 7 ‘petals’ but again, if it gives you 6 or 8 it really doesn’t matter!

Finish off all the ends on the flower centres. Leave the ends on the petals and hearts and use these to join the hearts and flowers.

Making up your Hearts and Flowers Scarf

You can start anywhere when you make this scarf up. I started at one end adding each element as I went. I think if I was making this with scraps, I would start in the middle and keep each side more or less even with the colours.

Pick up your first heart. Using one of the ends that you left without finishing, thread a wool needle and work the end through the heart to the point where it touches the next element in your layout. Join to this next element with a couple of stitches then continue to finish off the end by weaving it into the heart as normal.

Lay the two joined elements back into your design. Pick up the next element that touches these and again join using the other unfinished end. If you have too many joins and not enough unfinished ends then you can thread your needle with a yarn scrap to form the join but I tried to get away without doing this!

One final point on the layout. Pushing the hearts and flowers together closely to minimise the gaps and spaces, will make the scarf more substantial and warmer. Spreading the hearts and flowers out, leaving larger gaps, will make the scarf more decorative than warm!

If you use this pattern please share your results – it would be lovely to see them. I am happy for anyone to use these or any of my patterns to make things to sell or share but please include a link back to my blog if you do.

I have one more heart based pattern to come for this years Valentines day so watch this space. Hope to be posting that one in the coming week. Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Log Cabin Love crochet block

January 24, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

Here is my latest heart themed block. This one is a great stash buster! You can use any scraps of yarn you have to make the log cabin love crochet block. However, the yarn does need to be roughly the same weight.

To make the examples shown here I have used Stylecraft Special Chunky and a 6mm hook. You can see the range here where I buy all my yarn at Woolwarehouse.

It is possible to mix different yarn types and I can cover this in a separate post if you would find it helpful. Please leave a comment to let me know.

NOTE – This pattern will be a lot easier to follow when I add photos which will follow in the coming week – before end Jan 21. If you find it hard to follow please come back when the photos are up. 🙂

Log Cabin Love crochet block pattern – UK crochet terms

NOTE – for US terms simply work DC where the pattern states Tr.

The heart of the pattern (see what I did there?) is the crochet heart. To make the heart you need to follow this link to my new large crochet heart pattern. The link takes you to another page on my blog where you will find the free pattern in both UK and US crochet terms. I made a few of these hearts then started to build the log cabin panels around them.

This diagram shows you the order in which the panels are worked.

log cabin love block diagram — log cabin love block panels

First panel

With your crochet heart face up this panel sits down the left hand side of the heart. We will be working from top to bottom of the block. The first four blocks have foundation rows made of chain stitch or slip stitches. This is because they frame the heart and are not joined to anything else in places.

First row

log cabin love panel 1 — start by adding foundation for panel 1

Make a loop to start and chain 3. Count the stitches up the left side from the bottom of the heart with the bottom stitch being #1, slip stitch into #13 to attach your chain to the heart. Continue with 12 more chain. Turn the work ready for the second row.