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Flower Petal Edging Pattern

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I was absolutely thrilled to receive a comment on one of my early posts requesting this Flower Petal Edging Pattern. This edging completed my Sunshine Flower Blanket which you can see as it grows in these posts. These goes back to the early days of my blog 🙂

Sunshine Flower Blanket

Sunshine Flower Blanket – Progress!!

The Edging takes the theme of the flower squares I used to make the blanket. You can find the flower square pattern in a book by Tracey Lord called A Square a Day. I love this book and have used it as a source of inspiration many times.

Here is the pattern. For your ease I will list it twice using UK then US terms. The pattern uses three colours but you could keep to one or two if you prefer. My blanket was worked in Sirdar Cotton DK which is a glorious yarn with beautiful stitch definition and a lovely soft texture. I used their cream shade called Vanilla 502 for the background for the blanket.

The colours I used for the edging are:

  • Yellow – Yarn A – Citrus 531
  • Orange – Yarn B – Honeysuckle 508
  • Red – Yarn C – Red 510

Before we start there is a stitch here that you might not have come across. Picot 2 or Picot 3. These little stitches create the peak of each petal. I used Picot 2 on the orange round of petals and Picot 3 on the final round of larger red petals. To perform this stitch simply chain 2 for picot 2 and then slip stitch into the first chain stitch. For Picot 3, you guessed it – chain 3 then slip stitch into the first chain stitch. The stitch creates a little knot which adds texture and definition.

working the slip stitch to form the Picot 2.

Flower Petal Edging pattern – UK crochet terms

First round

Using Yarn A join the yarn to the edge of your work with a slip stitch and work two chain. Work a row of Htr into each stitch of the edge of your project.

Second round

TIP – there is no need to start each round in the same place. Moving the start point around the project will spread the positioning of the ends you will need to weave in and also improves the overall uniform appearance.

Using Yarn B join in the yarn to the edge of your work with a slip stitch chain two, (1Tr, picot 2*, 2Tr) all into the same stitch, 1Htr, slip stitch. This should give you your first petal. The first petal is slightly different as it has the starting chain so I will write out the repeating petal pattern next. Each petal is worked over four stitches of the row below. (*see instructions above)

[1Htr, (1Tr, picot 2, 2Tr) all into the same stitch, 1Htr, Slip stitch]

Repeat this petal all the way around your project.

Third round

Using Yarn C – join in the yarn between any two petals with a slip stitch working into the stitch from the first round. The pictures show where you should put your hook.

Work 5 chain and then 1DC between the next two petals. Again you are working into the stitch you created on the first round. This round should be super quick and it forms the foundation for the final round of petals.

The chain loops might be at the front or the back of your work once you finish this round. It doesn’t really matter where they end up – mine are normally at the front. Push them to the back as you work the final round, pulling the petals from the previous round to the front.

Fourth and final round

Keeping with yarn C working into the chain loop you created on the last round in each chain loop work as follows: 1DC, 3Tr, picot 3, 1Dtr, 3Tr, 1DC. A total of 8 stitches into the chain loop then move onto the next chain loop and repeat all the way around your project.

picture shows the front of the work – working the petals into the chain loops

Finish off the ends and you are done!!

Flower Petal Edging pattern – US crochet terms

First round

Using Yarn A join the yarn to the edge of your work with a slip stitch and work two chain. Work a row of HDc into each stitch of the edge of your project.

Second round

TIP – there is no need to start each round in the same place. Moving the start point around the project will spread the positioning of the ends you will need to weave in and also improves the overall uniform appearance.

Using Yarn B join in the yarn to the edge of your work with a slip stitch chain two, (1Dc, picot 2*, 2Dc) all into the same stitch, 1HDc, slip stitch. This should give you your first petal. The first petal is slightly different as it has the starting chain so I will write out the repeating petal pattern next. Each petal is worked over four stitches of the row below. (*see instructions above)

[1HDc, (1Dc, picot 2, 2Dc) all into the same stitch, 1HDc, Slip stitch]

Repeat this petal all the way around your project.

Third round

Using Yarn C – join in the yarn between any two petals with a slip stitch working into the stitch from the first round. The pictures above in the UK terms section show where you should put your hook.

Work 5 chain and then 1SC between the next two petals. Again you are working into the stitch you created on the first round. This round should be super quick and it forms the foundation for the final round of petals.

The chain loops might be at the front or the back of your work once you finish this round. It doesn’t really matter where they end up – mine are normally at the front. Push them to the back as you work the final round, pulling the petals from the previous round to the front.

Fourth and final round

Keeping with yarn C working into the chain loop you created on the last round in each chain loop work as follows: 1SC, 3Dc, picot 3, 1Tr, 3Dc, 1Sc. A total of 8 stitches into the chain loop then move onto the next chain loop and repeat all the way around your project. See picture above in the UK terms section.

Finish off the ends and you are done!!

I hope you love this edging as much as I do. Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Crochet Chain Garland

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In an attempt to help reduce plastic pollution, I have been making sustainable decorations including this crochet chain garland. This is another fun, quick, easy make. I made the example here in sustainable cotton as part of a set of decorations I designed with weddings or girls bedrooms in mind.

Crochet Chain Garland with ‘table confetti’ hearts

If you like the little ‘table confetti’ hearts, the pattern for those is here.

This idea would also work with bright colours and different weights of yarn. The pattern is a fab stash buster as you can mix and match any colours you have. Each link in the chain requires only a small amount of yarn. I plan to make a super chunky version with the left over yarn from all my rainbow projects which you can see here

Crochet Chain Garland Pattern

Note – this pattern uses DK weight yarn and a four mm hook. However it can be adjusted to any yarn weight – instructions at the bottom.

For the first link.

Chain 35 and join to the first chain with a slip stitch.

First round – chain two. Work DC into the each chain (SC in US terms). Finish the round with a slip stitch to join to the top of the first stitch.

Second round – chain three. Work TR (DC in US terms) into each of the DC on the previous row. (SC in US terms). Again finish the round with a slip stitch.

Third and final round – work a round of DC (SC in US terms) as round 1. Finish with a slip stitch and tie off the yarn. You have made your first link.

Second and all subsequent links

Start with a chain the same length as your first link. If you are using the same weight yarn as I used that means a chain of 35. The only difference between this and the first link is that we need to join to the rest of the garland. To do this, thread the chain through the first link before you make the slip stitch into the first chain to form the loop.

Continue to form this link in the same way as you made the first. Each link in the chain is free to move through its neighbours. They are not attached – just threaded together.

And that is it! Continue for as many links as you like. Make patterns with the colours or make them happily random with any remnants from your stash!

Changing the pattern to suit different weights of yarn.

Consider what size of link will work best for the yarn weight. I find that links work well when the length of the link is eight to ten times the height. You can work out how many stitches it takes to make the size you require based on the tension square instructions on the ball band.

Example – Super Chunky – Lion Brand Yarns – Hometown USA. The ball band has a 10cm tension square of 12 rows x 9 stitches. The pattern gives the equivalent of four rows so the links would be c 3.3 cm high.

I want each link to be 8 to 10 times as long as they are tall so I need them to be 27cms which means 30 stitches. This is super chunky yarn so these chains will be HUGE – but I hope that gives you the method to use to adjust the pattern.

Hope you enjoy making these happy garlands!

Annie. 🙂

Heart full of Rainbows Cushion

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This heart full of rainbows cushion is a companion project to my hearts and rainbows blanket. You will be working entirely in DC (UK terms) or SC (US terms). It is a simple project. However you will need to understand how to increase/decrease your stitches. I have suggested a method below but you might have one you prefer. The making-up instructions might be a bit tricky if you are new to crochet. I will put my instructions here and in the final PDF version of the pattern which will be available on Etsy. You can see the hearts and rainbows blanket here.

heart full of rainbows cushion and blanket
free pattern for hearts and rainbows blanket, heart full of rainbows cushion available on my blog

First things first. The yarn used to make the Heart Full of Rainbows Cushion is Lion Brand Yarns, Hometown USA yarn. This is a super chunky yarn which means the work grows really quickly! 🙂 I love this yarn for that reason and because it has lovely bright colours and is good value for the price. In the UK I buy all my yarn from Wool Warehouse. Note – at this point these are not affiliate links so I am not paid to promote either brand – I just love them!

To make the cushion you will need one ball of each of the colours of the rainbow. For the edging I used White and Black but if you wanted to keep the cost down you could edge the cushion in one of the other colours. You will also need a 9mm crochet hook.

I created a chart for this pattern which I like to print out and mark off as I go. I will write out the instructions long hand in the PDF pattern but if you want to get started, the free download is here:

Heart Full of Rainbows Chart (51 downloads)

Making the Heart full of Rainbows Cushion

Start at the bottom of the chart by making a chain of 4 using the violet yarn. Turn and work two DC (SC for US terms) starting in the third stitch from the hook. Chain four and turn the work.

Second row – work one DC (SC for US terms) into the third and fourth stitches from the hook. work 2 DC (SC for US terms) into the next two stitches. Chain 2 and turn the work.

Third row – work two DC (SC for US terms) into the first stitch. Work 4 DC (SC for US terms). Work 2 DC (SC for US terms) into the next stitch then chain two and turn the work.

Continue in this manner, increasing the number of stitches on each row to match the chart. Remember to change colour when the chart changes!!

When you get to the decrease rows again there are many methods you can use to decrease. To get a neater edge you can miss the second stitch of the row. You might find it easier to miss the first – this gives a stepped edge but as you are going to be edging the heart that should not be visible. When you chain two and turn at the end of the row simply miss the first stitch and work DC (SC in US terms) into the second. If the decrease is at the end of a row then stop one stitch short chain two and turn.

As you decrease follow the chart again and you will see that at the top of the heart you need to turn the work in the middle of the row. This allows you to complete one side of the top of the heart. You will need to rejoin the yarn in the middle of the work to complete the second side of the heart.

The final stage of each side of the cushion is to edge the heart. I did this in white but you could use whichever colour you like. This step gives you a neat edge to use when you join the two hearts together. Count the stitches you use on each side so that you can match front and back. The edging is entirely DC again (SC in US terms). Try to space your stitches so that the work lies flat without being stretched or pulled. I used the following number of stitches:

Working up the bottom side of the heart violet to Green – 27 stitches

For the straight section, part of the green, yellow and the start of the Orange, I used 10 stitches.

From the start of the decrease and up to the top of the heart I worked 15 stitches.

Work the six stitches across the top of the heart and from the top down to the centre I worked 14 stitches.

In the very centre of the heart where you have two stitches (number 26/27 on the orange row of the chart) work these two together.

Complete the second half of the edging to match the first. Work one round of DC (SC in US terms). At the centre of the heart again where you worked two stitches together, work three together on this round.

When you have finished one heart you will need to start all over again on the second side. I made two matching rainbow hearts but if you are using up scraps you could make the back of the cushion out of a single colour or just use whatever you have!

Making up the Heart Cushion

Now you should have two completed, edged hearts. I suggest you tie in the ends at this point but bear in mind that the back of this work is the inside of a cushion which nobody should ever see so there is no real need to make these ends disappear. The thickness of the yarn makes tying in ends neatly quite difficult. All you really need to do is secure them and make sure that nothing is visible from the front.

To finish the cushion you need to join the two hearts together. I used black for this – if your edging is neat this is a really quick job! Put the two hearts back to back ie with the sides you want to see on the outside. Join in black yarn (or your choice) and work DC (SC in US terms) all the way round putting your hook through the white edge stitches on both sides of the cushion. As you form your DC (SC in US terms) you will see that you are joining front to back.

Don’t join all the way round until you have put your cushion pad into the heart! I have done this – it made me feel very silly but it is easy to forget when you are on the downhill slopes towards a finished project!!

I have a separate post on creating the cushion pad which you can read here. If you want to be able to take your cushion cover off to wash it then you should leave an opening in the side which will need a separate fastening. I would recommend leaving a section of the bottom of one side of the heart. When you are edging just drop the back for a section so that you are only working into the white edge stitches on one heart.

My cushion has washable insides so I didn’t leave any openings to remove the cover.

I hope you like this heart cushion – the rainbow motif has come to stand for thank you to our nurses since I made mine! I have changed my social media image to this heart as my own small thank you. How our world has changed these last few weeks. Here’s hoping we get back to happier times soon.

Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Marry Me? – Cushion give-away

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This Marry me? Cushion give-away is the first of this type of event for my blog. 29th Feb is a very special day that only comes around once every four years. In lots of cultures it is the one day that women are allowed by tradition to do the proposing. However, I believe that anyone can ask the person they love to marry them whenever they like! This cushion has the date knitted in so it is destined for someone who has picked 29 Feb 20 as their proposal date!

Marry me? - cushion give away

All you have to do is leave a comment below to let me know you would like the cushion. Please also email me with details of where you would like the cushion to be sent. I will draw the winner from the people who leave comments here. I will not keep any details beyond the point at which the winner is picked 🙂 My email address is Annie@stickytapeandstring.co.uk

Timing and postage delays!

I will do my best to get it to wherever it needs to go by the 29th but cannot guarantee this. I will check responses on the 25th and again on 27th if it hasn’t gone by then. Postage time means this is probably only a realistic option to the UK or Europe but if anyone further afield would like to take the risk on timing I will give it a go!

Finally, if any of you would like a version of the cushion making with your own date, let me know. You can leave a comment here or email me. I will be putting the pattern up on my Etsy store in the next few weeks. I also have a much larger cushion and matching rainbow heart blanket which you can see here.

Thank you for visiting this ‘Marry me? – cushion give-away’ page and good luck!!

Annie 🙂

Learn to Crochet – beginners kit

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Here are my top tips for a beginners kit for anyone who wants to learn to crochet. Lots of people would love to take up a new craft. The health benefits of crafting are real!!

The kit of products I am recommending here would make a lovely starter set. At entry level crochet is very simple and with a few basic stitches you can make a lot of beautiful things.

Disclaimer – the products I am recommending here are ones that I use and love myself. I am a registered affiliate of Amazon and if you click on the links to these products it is possible that I will receive a small payment at no additional cost to you. Any payment I do receive would go towards the running cost of this blog and help me towards my dream of running this as a business one day!

Firstly let’s look at hooks. The hooks I find most comfortable have a cushioned grip. The hooks I have selected here come in a range of 14 sizes. I love working in different yarn weights and do use all the sizes, especially the very large and very small ones!

Next, when you have finished your crochet work you have to finish off the ends. This used to mean trying to thread thick yarn through the eye of a darning needle. Frustrating! Then forcing the needle through the work, splitting the yarn and often piercing your own finger in the process! However, my crochet life was transformed when I discovered the Knit Pro Wool Needles. These are AMAZING wonderful time and patience savers. They produce a better result as well because the rounded ends do not split the yarn.

The appearance of any finished piece of crochet is always improved when it is blocked. This means placing the finished work on a foam board and pinning it out to the shape you would like it to hold. Spray the work with a fine mist of water and leave it to dry. Magic happens and the work takes the desired shape – stops curling at the edges and generally looks much tidier! I used to use kids foam play floor tiles for this and ordinary dressmaking pins. If you are just starting you could use those as a cheaper alternative – they served me well. If you are looking to treat someone or yourself, the ones I recommend are these Knit Pro ones. The grid lines are really helpful. The extra thickness means the pins don’t go all the way through into the table like mine used to!

Finally – when it comes to blocking, I find you can never have too many pins. The blocking boards come with pins but I recommend buying a few more. The set I found has two sizes which is helpful when working in different weights of yarn.

That is really all you need to get started apart from yarn of course! I buy all my yarn from Wool Warehouse here in the UK. I have also posted ideas on how you can recycle yarn which you can read here.

If you are the kind of person who likes to learn from a book, there are several good ones to choose from. I have included a few that I enjoy reading through below. There are ideas here for beginners and more advanced crafters. It really isn’t necessary to buy a book now though with lots of excellent tutorials on YouTube, Pinterest and Instagram.

Hope you find this set of products as useful and helpful as I do. Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Crochet Hearts – three sizes

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Here is an update to my crochet hearts pattern which gives you three sizes of heart to make. These lovely little motifs are super quick to make.

Crochet heart in three sizes - free pattern on my blog

You can use the hearts as card toppers or to decorate any craft project. If you add a safety pin to the back you could use these as a simple pin or broach. You could even turn them into earings! I recently used them to make charms as you can see below and read here. I also plan to sell them on my Etsy store if you would like some ready made!

Crochet Heart charm - quick make

The pattern will work in any yarn thickness or type. The ones shown here are in cotton DK and 4 ply but I have also made these in super chunky and used them in a block to make a blanket which you can see here.

Crochet Heart – UK terms

Size 1 – smallest heart (UK terms)

Make a magic loop, chain 3 and working into the magic loop, 3 dtr, 3tr, chain 1, 1dtr, chain 1, 3tr, 3dtr, chain 2, slip stitch into magic loop and pull the thread to close the centre of the heart. And you are done!

Size 2 – medium heart (UK terms)

Make a small heart as above then…..

Second round – 2 sl stitch into the gap behind the three chain from the first round.  3dc into the next stitch (top of the left side of the heart), 3 dc into the next stitch and 2 dc into the following stitch.   Work 4 dc to take you to the bottom loop of the heart.  3dc into the bottom stitch of the heart, 4 dc, work 2dc, 3dc, 3dc into the next three stitches, 2 sl stitches and one final slip stitch into the centre of the heart. You should have a medium heart!

Size 3 – largest heart (UK terms)

Make a medium heart as above then…..

Third round – 2 slip stitches then 2dc into the next five stitches (around the top of the left side of the heart) 7 dc, 3dc into the bottom stitch of the heart, 7dc, 2dc into the next five stitches, 2 slip stitches and finish off to complete the largest heart.

Crochet Heart – US terms

Size 1 – smallest heart (US terms)

Make a magic loop, chain 3 and working into the magic loop, 3TRC, 3DC, chain 1, 1TRC, chain 1, 3DC, 3TRC, chain 2, slip stitch into magic loop and pull the thread to close the centre of the heart. Your small heart is complete!

Size 2 – medium heart (US terms)

Make a small heart as above then…..

Second round – 2 sl stitch into the gap behind the three chain from the first round.  3SC into the next stitch (top of the left side of the heart), 3 SC into the next stitch and 2SC into the following stitch.   Work 4SC to take you to the bottom loop of the heart.  3SC into the bottom stitch of the heart, 4SC, work 2SC, 3SC, 3SC into the next three stitches, 2 sl stitches and one final slip stitch into the centre of the heart. Stop here if you wanted to make a medium heart – you are done!

Size 3 – largest heart (US terms)

Make a medium heart as above then…..

Third round – 2 slip stitches then 2SC into the next five stitches (around the top of the left side of the heart) 7 SC, 3SC into the bottom stitch of the heart, 7SC, 2SC into the next five stitches, 2 slip stitches and finish off to complete the large heart.

I hope you enjoy this quick make. Let me know what you use yours for. I am always on the look out for ideas!!

happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂