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Daisy bag

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This bag was designed on my daily commute.   I love the fresh look with white cotton and picked the colours my daughter liked but the colour way is entirely up to you!

The finished bag measures 10 inches by 7 inches or 25cm by 18cm.   I put on one shoulder strap but it would easily convert to two smaller handles if you prefer.   I have included instructions for both.

The yarn I have used here is Drops Muskat a mercerized cotton which gives great stitch definition and a firm finish that should not stretch with use.   It works up on a 4mm hook and is very good quality/value.   I paid £1.45 per 50g ball.

Daisy Bag instructions – UK terms  (SCROLL DOWN FOR US TERMS!)

The pattern uses a 4mm hook and three colours of yarn.   For the example in the photo I used:

Yarn A – Drops Muskat – colour 19 – Light Grey

Yarn B – Drops Muskat – colour 18 – White

Yarn C – Drops Muskat – colour 06 – Light Pink

Starting with Yarn A – Light Grey

Base – Chain 5 stitches, slip stitch into the first chain to form a loop.  Chain 35.   slip stitch into the fifth stitch from the hook to form a second loop.

1st round – This is the only real fiddly bit so it is worth taking your time.  Chain 2, DC 30 along the straight chain.  Take care not to let the chain twist as you work it.   Don’t worry if you have to pull it out a couple of times to get it right (I did!).   Work 6DC into the end loop, DC 30 along the straight chain working into the DC’s from the first part of the round.   This gives a strong bottom to the bag.   your work should look like the photo’s below.   Finally – work 6 DC into the end loop and join with a slip stitch to your start point for the round.

2nd round – Chain 2, DC 31, work 2DC into each of the middle four of the six DCs you worked into the loop of the base.  DC 32, work 2DC into the middle four of the six DCs you worked into the second loop of the base.  1 DC, slip stitch to join to the start point of the round.

3rd round – Chain 2, DC 32, work 2DC into the next 6 stitches, DC 35, work 2 DC into the next 6 stitches, 1DC, slip stitch to join to the start point of the round.

The base of the bag is now complete!!  If you would like a bigger base – repeat the row above, adjusting the increase round the ends of the base to allow the work to lie flat.

4th round – Chain 2.   DC into every stitch BUT – only pick up the back of the stitch.  See photo below.   This creates a line that will form the edge of the bottom of the bag.

5th round – Chain 2, Tr into each stitch on the row below.   Slip stitch to join to the top of the three chains that started the round.   Note – lots of patterns would say to chain three before a round  of Trebles but I find that chain 2 works better for me and gives a neater finish.   It might be worth trying both versions to see what suits you best.

6th round – Chain 2, DC into each stitch on the row below.   Slip stitch to join to the top of the two chains that started the round.

7th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

8th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

9th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

10th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

Change colour!   Working with Yarn B – White –   I normally try to join in the yarn on the end of the bag so that the start of each row is not in the middle of the flat part where they are more visible.

11th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

12th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

13th round – This round creates the ‘holes’ that we will later weave the bands through.  Chain 4, (miss one stitch and work Treble into the next, chain 1)  repeat to end of round.  Join with a slip stitch to the third of the four chains that started the round.

14th round – Chain 2, work one  DC into the ‘hole’ on the previous row.  Continue by working 2DC into each of the ‘holes’ created in the previous round.  Join with a slip stitch to the second of the two chains that started the round.

15th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

16th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

17th round – repeat the 13th round, creating the holes.

18th round – repeat the 14th round working DCs into the ‘holes’.

19th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

20th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

Change colour!   Working with Yarn C – Light Pink

21st round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

22nd round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

23rd round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

24th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

25th round – repeat the 6th round working DCs

26th round – repeat the 5th round working Trebles

27th round – Chain 2, Htr into each stitch on the row below.   Join with a slip stitch to the second of the two chains that started the row.

28th round – Slip stitch into each stitch on the round below to create the decorative edge.   Join to the start point with a slip stitch and this completes the main part of the bag.

Creating the ‘ribbons’ that weave through the bag.

To create the two ribbons that you will weave in and out of the ‘holes’ in the bag, first take yarn A – Light Grey and make a chain 102 stitches long.

Slip stitch into the third stitch from the hook and keep going with a slip stitch into each chain until you get back to the start point.    Pull both ends through the loop on the hook to finish off, leaving the two ends which you will use to stitch up the ribbon.

Work the second ribbon in the same way but in yarn C – Light Pink.

Creating the flower decorations.

First Flower – Working with Yarn A – Light Grey.   

1st round – Make a magic loop then Chain 2, DC 11.  Join to form a disc.

2nd round – (Chain 6 slip stitch into the row below at the base of the chain.   Slip stitch into next stitch) repeat six times.   This will give you a disc with six chain stitch loops that will form the basis of the petals.

Change colour! – working with Yarn C – Light Pink

3rd round – (working into one of the chain stitch loops, 3 DC, 1 Htr, 1Tr, 1HTr, 3DC.  work one slip stitch into the stitch on the row below between the chain stitch petals), repeat six times until you have a full set of six petals.   You have a finished flower!

Second Flower – Now work the flower again switching round the two yarn colours.

Assemble the bag by slotting the ribbon through the ‘holes’.    I chose to put the Pink ribbon closest to the bottom and near to the Grey section of the bag.    If you weave the ribbon in and out of the holes over and under the Trebles that form the holes you should find you come back to the start with two ‘unders’ side by side.    This is probably easier to see in the photo below than it is to understand my explanation!

Join the two ends of ribbon at this point and then attach the flower over the top of the join, between the two places that the ribbon was woven under the bars.    I used the flower with the Light Pink petals at the bottom of the bag next to the section that was made in Light Grey.   ie use the flower with petals in Yarn C against the ribbon in Yarn C.

Finally – Adding Handles or Strap.  

To finish the bag you need to decide whether you would like a shoulder strap or twin handles.    The start point for both is to create ribbons as above.    Each strap or handle needs three ribbons which are plaited.

The ribbon length I used to create the shoulder strap was 202 chain.

The ribbon length I used to create each handle was 82 chain.

Work three ribbons – one in each colour.    Attach the three ribbons to each other at one end.   Note – if you use two of the ribbons the same way around and one the opposite way round you will have ends of yarn at both ends of the plait, this will help with the stitching up.   

 

Using the ends of yarn from each ribbon stitch the handles into the bag – and you are done!!   

I hope you enjoyed this pattern.   Please let me know.    US terms follow.

Daisy Bag instructions – US terms

The pattern uses a 4mm hook and three colours of yarn.   For the example in the photo I used:

Yarn A – Drops Muskat – colour 19 – Light Grey

Yarn B – Drops Muskat – colour 18 – White

Yarn C – Drops Muskat – colour 06 – Light Pink

Starting with Yarn A – Light Grey

Base – Chain 5 stitches, slip stitch into the first chain to form a loop.  Chain 35.   slip stitch into the fifth stitch from the hook to form a second loop.

1st round – This is the only real fiddly bit so it is worth taking your time.  Chain 2, SC 30 along the straight chain.  Take care not to let the chain twist as you work it.   Don’t worry if you have to pull it out a couple of times to get it right (I did!).   Work 6SC into the end loop, SC 30 along the straight chain working into the SC’s from the first part of the round.   This gives a strong bottom to the bag.   your work should look like the photo’s below.   Finally – work 6 SC into the end loop and join with a slip stitch to your start point for the round.

2nd round – Chain 2, SC 31, work 2SC into each of the middle four of the six SCs you worked into the loop of the base.  SC 32, work 2SC into the middle four of the six SCs you worked into the second loop of the base.  1 SC, slip stitch to join to the start point of the round.

3rd round – Chain 2, SC 32, work 2SC into the next 6 stitches, SC 35, work 2 SC into the next 6 stitches, 1SC, slip stitch to join to the start point of the round.

The base of the bag is now complete!!  If you would like a bigger base – repeat the row above, adjusting the increase round the ends of the base to allow the work to lie flat.

4th round – Chain 2.   SC into every stitch BUT – only pick up the back of the stitch.  See photo below.   This creates a line that will form the edge of the bottom of the bag.

5th round – Chain 2, DC into each stitch on the row below.   Slip stitch to join to the top of the three chains that started the round.   Note – lots of patterns would say to chain three before a round  of DC but I find that chain 2 works better for me and gives a neater finish.   It might be worth trying both versions to see what suits you best.

6th round – Chain 2, SC into each stitch on the row below.   Slip stitch to join to the top of the two chains that started the round.

7th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

8th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

9th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

10th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

Change colour!   Working with Yarn B – White –   I normally try to join in the yarn on the end of the bag so that the start of each row is not in the middle of the flat part where they are more visible.

11th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

12th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

13th round – This round creates the ‘holes’ that we will later weave the bands through.  Chain 4, (miss one stitch and work DC into the next, chain 1)  repeat to end of round.  Join with a slip stitch to the third of the four chains that started the round.

14th round – Chain 2, work one  SC into the ‘hole’ on the previous row.  Continue by working 2SC into each of the ‘holes’ created in the previous round.  Join with a slip stitch to the second of the two chains that started the round.

15th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

16th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

17th round – repeat the 13th round, creating the holes.

18th round – repeat the 14th round working SCs into the ‘holes’.

19th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

20th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

Change colour!   Working with Yarn C – Light Pink

21st round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

22nd round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

23rd round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

24th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

25th round – repeat the 6th round working SCs

26th round – repeat the 5th round working DCs

27th round – Chain 2, HDC into each stitch on the row below.   Join with a slip stitch to the second of the two chains that started the row.

28th round – Slip stitch into each stitch on the round below to create the decorative edge.   Join to the start point with a slip stitch and this completes the main part of the bag.

Creating the ‘ribbons’ that weave through the bag.

To create the two ribbons that you will weave in and out of the ‘holes’ in the bag, first take yarn A – Light Grey and make a chain 102 stitches long.

Slip stitch into the third stitch from the hook and keep going with a slip stitch into each chain until you get back to the start point.    Pull both ends through the loop on the hook to finish off, leaving the two ends which you will use to stitch up the ribbon.

Work the second ribbon in the same way but in yarn C – Light Pink.

Creating the flower decorations.

First Flower – Working with Yarn A – Light Grey.

1st round – Make a magic loop then Chain 2, SC 11.  Join to form a disc.

2nd round – (Chain 6 slip stitch into the row below at the base of the chain.   Slip stitch into next stitch) repeat six times.   This will give you a disc with six chain stitch loops that will form the basis of the petals.

Change colour! – working with Yarn C – Light Pink

3rd round – (working into one of the chain stitch loops, 3 SC, 1 HDC, 1DC, 1HDC, 3SC.  work one slip stitch into the stitch on the row below between the chain stitch petals), repeat six times until you have a full set of six petals.   You have a finished flower!

Second Flower – Now work the flower again switching round the two yarn colours.

Assemble the bag by slotting the ribbon through the ‘holes’.    I chose to put the Pink ribbon closest to the bottom and near to the Grey section of the bag.    If you weave the ribbon in and out of the holes over and under the DCs that form the holes you should find you come back to the start with two ‘unders’ side by side.    This is probably easier to see in the photo below than it is to understand my explanation!

Join the two ends of ribbon at this point and then attach the flower over the top of the join, between the two places that the ribbon was woven under the bars.    I used the flower with the Light Pink petals at the bottom of the bag next to the section that was made in Light Grey.   ie use the flower with petals in Yarn C against the ribbon in Yarn C.

Finally – Adding Handles or Strap.

To finish the bag you need to decide whether you would like a shoulder strap or twin handles.    The start point for both is to create ribbons as above.    Each strap or handle needs three ribbons which are plaited.

The ribbon length I used to create the shoulder strap was 202 chain.

The ribbon length I used to create each handle was 82 chain.

Work three ribbons – one in each colour.    Attach the three ribbons to each other at one end.   Note – if you use two of the ribbons the same way around and one the opposite way round you will have ends of yarn at both ends of the plait, this will help with the stitching up.

Using the ends of yarn from each ribbon stitch the handles into the bag – and you are done!!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern.   Please let me know.

Happy Crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Hair accessory

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Hello!    I wanted to share this free pattern for a hair accessory with you.    Most of my making time at the moment is going into a large blanket made of smaller squares.   I am spending all my time making these squares and finishing off the ends.    The work is a stash buster in its own right as it uses small quantities of yarn to make each square.   However, I am still finding myself with some very small oddments and it hurts me to thrown those away so I have come up with this design to use even the smallest pieces of left over yarn!    Here is the finished result.



Instructions – Hair Accessory.

To make this you need small oddments of yarn, an elastic hair band/tie and the size of crochet hook appropriate to your yarn.   In my case I am using left over Drops Paris yarn which takes a size 5mm hook.

Start by making a magic loop that goes through the middle of the hair band.   I found this a bit of a mind bend to start with!   I am including a picture below so that you can lay your work down and copy mine if that helps!

Work 12 DC (SC US) into the magic loop.    You might need to vary this according to the weight of your yarn.   It doesn’t really matter how many stitches you put into the loop as long as you can pull it tight to circle the hair band – see below.

Without breaking the yarn work a chain to the length you require.   This will form one of the ‘ribbons’ in the final item.   If you are using light/acrylic yarn then the ribbon will spiral so you may need a longer chain.   In the yarn I am using the ribbons do not curl much and I used a chain of between 12 and 16 in the finished piece pictured.

When you have the chain to the length you require work back along the chain either using slip stitches or DC (US terms SC).   The SC will give the effect of a cord, DC (SC US) will give a thicker strip.    Finish off the strip with a slip stitch into the outer edge of the DCs in the magic loop.  This will reinforce the join between the ring and the strips and make the item more robust.

Join in other colours to the DC’s in the magic ring and repeat the steps above to add more strands to the accessory.   Keep these close together on one side of the ring so that the other side can sit against the wearers head without making it uncomfortable.

Finish the piece by sewing in the ends but this need not take long as you can run the loose ends down the length of the ribbons very quickly!    And that is it – you can play with colours – match them to other garments or use any random oddments in your stash!    These could look lovely on flower girls if they were worked all in cream/white or could be made to match the colours of flowers or bridesmaids dresses.

Hope you have a go at this and enjoy the results as much as I did.    I think it is a really fun way to use up tiny scraps of yarn and a lovely break from big projects.  Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Creative fun with your kids

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Having creative fun with your kids is a fantastic way to bond and develop together. Would you like to help your kids explore their creativity and lay down great memories!?    Would you like to make the most of long school holidays and weekends?   Age is no barrier to this – teenagers can be inspired to flex their creativity and the results can be amazing! It would be such a shame for them to lose that time to social media and electronic games.    After all it really won’t be many years before they head into a world of work with two weeks summer holiday at most.    Many older children will start with holiday jobs before leaving home and hence have even fewer long breaks. 

With all the distractions and pressures of the modern electronic world spending time away from games and social media is really positive and creativity is great for reducing stress.   I would certainly like to provide space and inspiration to allow my children to make things and learn or at least explore new crafts.

Like most people I don’t have all the money in the world to spend and I don’t have much time either.  I would like to organise holiday activities that encourage and develop creativity but don’t break the bank.

This post contains ideas for three activities you can do today with your kids. They are the basis for all the other activities which will follow. I will include a more detailed post on each in later weeks but there is enough here to get you started!

1.  A list of creative fun activities

This is something we do at the start of our school holidays. We all contribute ideas and then estimate for each idea what the cost would be in time and money.    I love doing this with my family.    It is an exercise in creativity all by itself.    Just getting teenagers to explore what activities they might want to do is refreshing and interesting.  You might find some of the ideas your kids come up with are surprising!

Set categories such as indoor/outdoor, dry/wet weather, free/cheap/splurge, active or restful.   Make sure you have activity ideas in each category.  Doing this helps people consider all sorts of activities not just the ones that involve parents spending lots of money!

This can also be an excellent way to teach younger kids about the costs of activities and explain or set budgets.  I will be sharing my lists here in later posts.   Incidentally Pinterest is a great source of ideas! I have a board devoted to activity ideas which you can see here Pinterest – Activity Ideas

I have produced a free printable template to record the activity ideas which you can read about and download here

2. Family scrapbook

These can be as fancy or simple as you and your family would like.  We used to do one each when my children were younger.   This year I am considering moving to a single one for all of us. Capture the ideas list you create with your family in the scrapbook right at the front! 

I love the bullet journal format but a notebook doesn’t really work when you are looking to collect ticket stubs and add photos.   The additional thickness puts too much strain on the spine of the book.  I find they work best as a loose leaf format so that pages can be added. 

You can keep it cheap and simple with office ring binders.   If you have a bigger budget and want something ready made and prettier there are lots of albums available.    The page limit doesn’t have to be a problem if you are prepared to have more than one!   

Again following a bullet journal type format, I like to use dotted paper which you can buy cheaply as refill pads.   Dotted paper is more flexible than lined paper when it comes to designing pages but the grid provides a guide to keep designs looking neat even if (like me) erm….art is not your first talent!

You can try to be ultra disciplined in terms of what you keep and record or you can keep a draft and refine the content when you make it a permanent record.   I will cover the structure and content of our scrapbooks in a later post.   

Ask your kids to complete a page every time they have something fun to document. Tip – ask them to put the day, date and time at the top of the page!! This helps with filing later and is a good teaching point. You could also get them to include the location (if you are travelling) and the weather is another interesting record to me. (but then I am British!)

You don’t need any special kit to get started on this activity. You can use any scrap paper and pens. I do find it is more special if you have pens and paper set aside specially for the scrapbook. Scrapbooking is a whole industry with some amazing and beautiful layouts, paper and embelishments you can buy. I haven’t gone down that road myself. Our scrapbooks have been much more home-made and low cost. Here are my starter for ten – budget kit and splurge kits if you would like to keep special pens and paper for this activity.    Please note, if you follow links in this post I may receive a small payment which goes towards the cost of running this blog.

Budget Scrapbook Kit

When your budget is tight it is important to spend on the things that will really make a difference.    In this instance I think that is the pens that you will use to brighten your pages and make them stand out.   There are so many options out there but for price and quality I would go with Stabilo point 88 fineliners.   I wouldn’t go for a large number of colours – you can make things look really special with just a few colours.   If you have a young family I would not recommend fineliners as the points can easily be damaged by little hands. When my kids were at that stage we stuck to wax crayons or chubby coloured pencils which I have in my recommendations below.

For the pages themselves to keep the cost down I would go for plain printer paper which you can buy locally to avoid shipping cost. I will also provide free downloads for printable pages when I can.

Finally if your budget is tight then I would either make a folder or do without one at the outset.   I will share a tutorial on making folders in a later post.    To keep your pages tidy you could use treasury tags or simply hold them together with a spare bit of ribbon, yarn or a shoelace!

Splurge Scrapbook Kit

As above, I would put my money into the fineliners.    I would still go for the Stabilo fineliners 88 but would maybe go for a few more colours 🙂   You will find you use a lot of the black pen so it is worth buying a separate set of those.   I also suggest you go for some pens with a thicker point for block colouring.  

Dotted A4 paper is the most flexible and I find it helps me make pages look tidy/pretty. The paper can be bought in pad form which makes it easier to work on and can be filed when pages are completed. 

If you are interested in the elaborate artistic scrapbooking that you can see in craft shops and on Pinterest, there are lots of beautiful supplies you can treat yourself to. Search on scrapbooking on Amazon, Etsy or Pinterest for a taste. I am not familiar with much of that world and it can be very expensive!

For the binder there are lots of options out there but I find the easiest way to source these is to buy lever arch files from my local office supplies shop.   Longer term I really would recommend making your own as part of one of your activity sessions.

3.  Family playlists

The third activity I would recommend is to set up a family playlist. This is something we started in the summer a few years ago now.  They are actually playlists for an entire year.  We each put forward the songs that make us think of that particular year.  Because the list requires everyone’s agreement it is an exercise in selling and diplomacy!  We have rules as follows:

1. Everyone can veto songs they don’t like. 

2. However we all have the right to one song that has been vetoed.  Oh… and

3. The judges decision is final (ie Mum gets to arbitrate if things get nasty!). 

We add to the list all year and record the reasons we are putting each track on the playlist.  It isn’t all current music. One year our playlist included older tracks used for an aqua-aerobics class at a hotel we were at for a week.  We heard the music every day and later those tracks reminded us of the holiday! Capture your list and include it in your family scrapbook!

When I was young, a play list was something you pieced together on a cassette tape. When I was a young Mum playlists were on my ipod. Now, if you subscribe to a music service you can set up an actual play list. We use Spotify here but I believe all services will allow you to set up shared play lists.

So those are my three start points.   I will share more detail from our planning and would love to hear from anyone with different ideas.  What do you do that works well?  What potential
mistakes should I avoid?  Please share!!

Have fun!

Annie 🙂