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crochet pattern

Free crochet pattern for a Bunny Sunhat

February 21, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

Hello and thank you for visiting my crochet blog. In this post I am sharing one of my latest patterns with you for free. If you would like to see the pattern advert free then it will also be available to buy on my Etsy store as a pdf download. The bunny stitch itself is one I created early in 2021. I have used the stitch in a few patterns but I think this one is my favourite. As I designed it I was looking forward to Easter and better weather! I really hope you love this free crochet pattern for a bunny sunhat.

crochet bunny sunhat - child size
crochet bunny sunhat – child size

The pattern comes in two sizes. The Adult size has a headband of about 21 inches depending on your tension. The Children’s size has a headband that measures around 19 inches.

Crochet Bunny Sunhat – materials

This pattern is worked in Stylecraft Special Chunky yarn using a 6mm hook. I love the range of colours available in this yarn. I buy all mine from Woolwarehouse. You can see the full range of colours on their site here.

To make each hat you need just one ball of yarn in the colour of your choice (yarn A) and one ball in the contrast colour for the bunnies and hat band (yarn B). You can make the child’s hat in a solid colour with no contrast band using just one ball. Then you would only need oddments for the bunnies.

Free crochet pattern for a Bunny Sunhat -UK crochet terms

For US crochet terms I will add a separate post and will put a link here when it is live. If you want to work from these instructions then for DC read SC and for Tr or Treble read DC.

The hat is worked from the centre of the crown down and out to the brim in one piece. All the rows are worked on the right side of the hat apart from the row of bunny bodies for which we will turn the work inside out and work from the wrong side.

Adult and Child size – uk terms

Foundation and round 1

Start in Yarn A. Make a magic loop, CH3 and work 14Tr into the loop then pull the loop closed and slip stitch to join to the top of your starting chain stitches.

foundation row - bunny hat
foundation row – bunny sunhat
Round 2

CH2 then work 2DC into each of the stitches on the previous row. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 3

CH3 and work 29Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 4

CH2 then work (2DC into the next stitch and 1 DC into the following stitch) repeat the stitches in brackets 14 times then work 2DC into the final stitch of the round and make a slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 5

CH3 and work 44Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 6

CH2 then (work 2DC into the next stitch and 1DC into each of the following two stitches) repeat the stitches in the brackets 14 times then work 2DC into the next stitch and 1DC into the following stitch and join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 7

CH3 and work 59Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Carry on with these instructions for the CHILD size hat. Jump down in these instructions to the ADULT size.

Round 8 – Child

CH2 then (work 2DC into the next stitch then work 1DC into each of the next 14 stitches) repeat the stitches in the brackets 3 times then work 2DC into the next stitch and 1DC into each of the the following 13 stitches and join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 9 – Child

This round is the edge of the crown and start of the bunny band. CH2 then work DC into the back of the loops only to leave a ridge at the front of the work. You should have 63DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

working into the back of the loops
working into the back of the loops
Round 10 – Child

Chain 3 and work 63Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 11 – Child

Chain 2 and work 63DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 12 – Child

Chain 2 and work 63DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 13 – Child

This round we will add the bunny ears. The photographs that follow show the stitch being worked on a plain band not the hat so do not expect yours to look like this ๐Ÿ™‚

CH2, joining in the contrast yarn B then work one DC in yarn A. Remember to place yarn B against the top of the work as you work this DC. You can see in the picture that yarn B is carried along the work. The picture below shows the positioning of the yarn as you start the stitch.

bunny stitch start point
shows the position of the yarn at the start of stitch
Now for the ears!

Hold yarn A against the top of the work then wrap yarn B around your hook. Insert your hook into the stitch two rows down and one stitch behind the position of your last stitch.

crochet bunny stitch step 1
crochet bunny stitch – yarn round and push hook in two rows down and one stitch back

With your hook through to the back of the work, wrap yarn B round the hook and pull back through to the front.

crochet bunny stitch step 2
wrap the yarn round the hook at the back of the work
crochet bunny stitch step 3
pull the yarn through to form the first ear!

You should have three loops on the hook, one in yarn A and two in yarn B.

Second Ear coming up!

Now wrap yarn B around the hook again and insert the hook into the stitch two rows down and two in front of the position of your first ear stitch. Note this will be two along from the one you worked into in the first part of this stitch. This part is the second ear and you should see one clear stitch between the ears as shown below.

crochet bunny stitch step 4
yarn round and push the hook through two rows down and two along from the first ear
crochet bunny stitch step 5
wrap yarn round the hook at the back of the work

With your hook through to the back of the work, wrap yarn B round the hook and pull back through to the front. You should now have five loops on the hook, one in yarn A and four in yarn B.

crochet bunny stitch step 6
after the second ear has been formed your hook should look like this

Wrap yarn B around the hook and pull back through all the loops on the hook to leave one loop and complete the ear stitch.

crochet bunny stitch step 7
wrap the yarn around and pull through all the loops on the hook to form the ear stitch

Hold yarn B against the top of the work and work 3 DC in yarn A, carrying yarn B along as shown below.

crochet bunny stitch step 8
work 3DC in yarn A holding yarn B against the top of the work to carry it along
crochet bunny stitch step 9
work 3 DC in yarn A to complete the pattern repeat of four stitches

These four stitches form the bunny ears. Remember to keep an even tension by pulling the yarn gently each time you change colour. When you work your second pair of ears you should leave a gap of one stitch from the previous ear :-). Repeat another 14 times then work one more set of bunny ears. This time do not carry yarn B along, leave it at the back of the final set of ears. Work 1DC in yarn A and slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain. Break off yarn A.

Round 14 – Child

This round is the only one we will work from the wrong side of the piece. Turn your work inside out and pick up yarn B which should be positioned at the end of the last pair of ears you added. Each bunny is a four treble cluster stitch with the first treble being worked into the stitch in yarn B on the previous row. The remaining three Trebles are worked into the row below just between the ears. Don’t worry if this sounds complicated it is described in stages below with pictures.

To start the first bunny, CH3 in yarn B then treating this chain as the first Tr in a 4Tr cluster, work the remaining three Trs of the cluster into the space below and between the bunny ears. Pull the yarn through to leave one loop on the hook after this first bunny. Chain 3 and continue with a four Tr cluster into the next bunny ear stitch. Detailed steps with photos below.

Lets give the rest of your bunnies a body!

To work a cluster of trebles * start by wrapping your yarn round the hook and pushing it into the stitch in yarn B on the previous row.

Crochet bunny stitch step 10
start the four stitch cluster by wrapping the yarn around the hook and pushing it into the stitch in yarn B on the previous row

Complete half of the treble leaving two loops on the hook.

Crochet bunny stitch step 11
yarn round and pull through two loops
Crochet bunny stitch step 12
to leave two loops on the hook

Now start your second treble of the cluster by wrapping the yarn around the hook and inserting it into the row below, between the bunny ears. We are working on the wrong side of the piece on this row. It is important to check that your hook is coming through in the correct place between the ears and remember to check both sides!

crochet bunny stitch step 13
yarn round and push the hook between the bunny ears, yarn round and pull through
crochet bunny stitch step 14
half way through the four stitch cluster with three loops on the hook

Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull back through and you will have four loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn round and pull through two of these to complete half of the second treble and leave three loops on the hook.

Half way there on the bunny body!

Repeat twice more each time wrapping the yarn around and putting the hook in between the ear stitches. Wrap the yarn round and pull through, wrap the yarn round again and pull through two loops to complete half the third and fourth trebles of the cluster. You should have five loops on the hook.

crochet bunny stitch step 15
with the last stitch of the four stitch cluster on the hook

Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through all five loops and you have completed your bunny.

crochet bunny stitch final step
yarn round and pull back through all the loops on the hook to complete the cluster

Chain 3 and repeat from * until you get to the end of the row. At the end of the row when you have worked the last bunny, chain 3 and join with a slip stitch to the top of the 3 chain that started the row.

REMEMBER to turn the work back round so that you complete the remaining rows from the right side of the work.

Round 15 – Child

Join in yarn A, CH2 and work 63 DC placing four DC between each of your bunnies by working into the gaps between bunny bodies.

Round 16 – Child

CH3 and work 63 Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 17 – Child

CH2 and work 63 DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 18 – Child

This round forms the edge of the brim. As with the edge of the crown we will be working into half of the stitch as we turn the corner. This time we are working into the front loop of the stitch only.

CH2 then working into the front loop of the stitch only (work 2DC into the next stitch then one DC into the following stitch) repeat the stitches between brackets 31 times then work 2DC into the final stitch and slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain.

Round 19 – Child

If you are using your contrast colour for the brim then join in yarn B at this point. CH3 and work a round of Tr then slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain.

Round 20 – Child

CH2 and work a round of DC then slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain.

Round 21 – Child

CH2 and work (2DC into the next stitch then 1 DC into each of the following three stitches) repeat the stitches between brackets until you reach the end of the round then slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain.

Round 22 – Child

CH3 and work a round of Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 23 – Child

CH2 then work a round of DC and join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 24 – Child

Final round!! If you have worked the brim in yarn B then rejoin yarn A to add the final round. CH2 and work a round of DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Now finish off your ends and you are done!!

Free crochet pattern for a Bunny Sunhat – UK crochet terms ADULT size

Round 8 – Adult

2CH and work (2DC into the next stitch then 1 DC into each of the following four stitches) repeat the stitches between the brackets 11 times then work 2DC into the next stitch and 1DC into each of the next 3 stitches then slip stitch into the top of the starting chain.

Round 9 – Adult

CH3 and work 71 Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 10 – Adult

CH2 and work 71 DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 11 – Adult

This round is the edge of the crown and start of the bunny band. CH2 then work DC into the back of the loops only to leave a ridge at the front of the work. You should have 71DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 12 – Adult

CH2 and work 71 DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 13 – Adult

CH2 and work 71 DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 14 to Round 18 – Adult

Follow the instructions for Round 11 to Round 15 – Child. The Adult size works on CH + 71 stitches where the child size works on CH + 63 stitches. There are two more bunnies on the Adult size ๐Ÿ™‚

Round 19 – Adult

CH2 then work 71 DC and join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 20 – Adult

CH3 and work 71 TR then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 21 – Adult

CH2 and work 71DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 22 – Adult

CH2 and work 71 DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 23 to Round 29 – Adult

Follow the instructions for Round 18 to Round 24 – Child. These rounds add the brim to complete the sunhat.

I really hope you love these little hats as much as I do. I have more projects to follow and more free patterns using my bunny stitch so please check back again or join my mailing list if you would like to see these. The first of these patterns is already available here – Free pattern for a crochet bunny headband.

If you would like to put up a link to this free crochet pattern for a bunny sunhat, please feel free. If you would like to make these hats to sell or share the pattern in any other way then please contact me first. It is my long term dream to build this blog by sharing free patterns and crochet love. I am always interested in talking to other bloggers on the same journey. Happy crocheting!

Annie ๐Ÿ™‚

Filed Under: Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet blog, crochet hat, crochet pattern, free crochet pattern

Little Padded Hearts

January 10, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

I have been having a bit of fun with my heart patterns. These little padded hearts are one of the things I have made. They are based on the new large heart pattern I shared earlier this month. These hearts are about 11cm across when made in chunky yarn. You can use them for decoration, bunting or as gifts.

basket of little hearts
little padded hearts

The first heart I made was a blue one with my thoughts firmly on the National Health Service here in the UK as they battle through one of the worst periods in their history. It doesn’t feel like there is much we can do to help but I have read posts by doctors and nurses on twitter saying they appreciate the show of solidarity as we all add blue hearts to our profiles.

To make your own padded heart you need to follow the new large heart pattern which you will find here. The hearts I made use Stylecraft Special Chunky which you can see here from Woolwarehouse. I don’t have any relationship with either brand but I love the quality and value of the Stylecraft yarns and I really value the service and range offered by Woolwarehouse.

The examples you can see here are worked on a 6mm hook. It takes about six or seven minutes to make each side of the heart. Factoring in making up time and a cup of tea, it takes roughly 25 mins to produce a padded heart ๐Ÿ™‚

To make your little padded heart, first make two hearts following the large heart pattern. When you finish the second, either leave the yarn attached or pull out a long length before cutting the yarn off. You will use this to make up the padded heart.

Making up your Little Padded Hearts

The examples you can see here have been joined using a crochet hook. I used a wool needle to finish them off and join the last few stitches. If you are a regular reader you will have seen me recommend Knit Pro wool needles before. I cannot believe it took me so long to find these little needles. They make such a difference to the time it takes to finish off ends and make projects up.

The beauty of these little padded hearts is that you don’t really need to weave in ends. Just pull them through to the wrong side of the heart, fasten them off securely and pop them inside as part of the stuffing!

Start the making up as shown below. Place the two hearts right side up in front of you. Push your hook into the outer strand of the edge stitch on the right side of the centre of the left heart. Appreciate this sounds very complicated. You might find it easier to follow the pictures below!

showing how to join the hearts 1 of 9
pick up stitch from outer edge of left heart
shows how to join two hearts 2 of 9
pick up stitch from outer edge of right hand heart

Next push your hook into the outer strand of the edge stitch on the right side of the centre of the right heart. This bit is fiddly but it does get easy once you get going I promise. Pull the yarn through both looks so that your two hearts are joined and you have a loop of yarn on the hook.

joining two hearts 3 of 9
wrap your yarn around the hook
joining two hearts 4 of 9
pull the yarn through so you have a loop on the hook

Repeat the process above but going into the outside edge of the next stitch on both hearts so that you have two loops on your hook. Pull the second loop through the first and you will start to make the joining seam. It should look like a row of raised chain stitches going round the edge of the hearts.

joining two hearts 5 of 9
repeat the process picking up a stitch on the left heart
joining two hearts 6 of 9
pick up the next stitch from the right hand heart
joining two hearts 7 of 9
wrap your yarn around the hook
joining two hearts 8 of 9
pull the yarn through the two stitches from either side of the heart
joining two hearts 9 of 9
finally pull the yarn through the loop on the hook

Keep going like this until you get round the whole heart and stop with a few stitches to go so that you can stuff the heart. As you stitch keep an eye on both sides to make sure you are working in the same stitches on both sides.

shows the start of the joining seam
your joining seam should look like this

Secure the end by pulling it through the last loop. Stuff the heart then use the remainder of the yarn to stitch up the final bit of the seam.

leaving a gap to stuff the heart
leave a gap to stuff the heart then join with a wool needle

I hope you love these little padded hearts! I will make a few more and list them on my Etsy store in time for Valentines day. Happy crocheting!

Annie ๐Ÿ™‚

little padded heart

Filed Under: Craft projects, Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet, crochet heart pattern, crochet pattern, free crochet heart pattern, free crochet pattern, Free pattern, heart, little padded heart, valentine

Crochet blog – January update

January 3, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

Hello everyone. Welcome to my crochet blog – January update with a couple of free patterns to start 2021. I have been reviewing and overhauling old blog posts. Turns out the last time I sent a general update was back in April 2019! There is nothing that points to success as a blogger better than consistency ๐Ÿ™‚ Possibly why my little blog is still just that…. a very little blog!

Anyway – thank you for reading, despite my lack of proper application to the task.

Project Updates

Lockdown Lapghan

In recent months I have been working on two projects. Firstly I created a pattern for a Lapghan using only one stitch, five colours and a pattern suitable for beginners. I called it Lockdown Lapghan and have worked it up in two sets of colours. You can see these below.

Lockdown Lapghan - berries in snow
Lockdown lapghan – Berries in the snow (with Milo)

lockdown lapghan - autumn sunset
lockdown lapghan – Autumn Sunset

The pattern for the Lapghan is spread across three separate posts as follows:

Lockdown Lapghan charts available to download here

Lockdown Lapghan basic pattern in UK and US instructions here

Lockdown Lapghan finishing and edging instructions here

New Large Heart and Edged Heart patterns

The other project I have just completed is a new crochet heart pattern. This is based on my previous heart pattern which remains my most popular (only popular) blog post. I wanted to create a larger sized heart. This one is c 10cm across when worked in chunky yarn. The free pattern for the new large heart is available here and I have also just added an edging pattern which is shown below. The original post for crochet hearts in three sizes is here

free pattern for new large heart
new large heart pattern

New Large Heart Edging – UK instructions

Starting at the centre of the top of the heart in a contrasting colour work 6 Dc. At the top of the heart into the next stitch work 2Dc. Work 2Dc into the next stitch then Dc into the following stitch. Then work 2Dc into the next stitch and 13 Dc down the left hand side of the heart. At the bottom of the heart work 1 Dc into the gap made by the chain on the previous row then 3Dc into the bottom stitch of the heart.

We are going to complete the second half of the heart edging as a mirror to the first. Work 1 Dc into the gap made by the chain on the previous row then 13 Dc up the right hand side of the heart. Next work 2Dc into the next stitch then Dc into the following stitch. Work 2Dc into each of the next two stitches. Finally work 6Dc down the centre of the right hand side of the top of the heart and finish off.

New Large Heart Edging – US instructions

Starting at the centre of the top of the heart in a contrasting colour work 6 Sc. At the top of the heart into the next stitch work 2Sc. Work 2Sc into the next stitch then Sc into the following stitch. Then work 2Sc into the next stitch and 13 Sc down the left hand side of the heart. At the bottom of the heart work 1 Sc into the gap made by the chain on the previous row then 3Sc into the bottom stitch of the heart.

We are going to complete the second half of the heart edging as a mirror to the first. Work 1 Sc into the gap made by the chain on the previous row then 13 Sc up the right hand side of the heart. Next work 2Sc into the next stitch then Dc into the following stitch. Work 2Sc into each of the next two stitches. Finally work 6Sc down the centre of the right hand side of the top of the heart and finish off.

crochet blog January update - New Large Heart - edging
new large heart pattern with edging

That is it for the crochet blog – January update. Spot the new year’s resolution to be better at posting updates and newsletters and blogging in general. Expect more in February (or not ๐Ÿ™‚ ) Happy Crocheting!

Annie ๐Ÿ™‚

Filed Under: Blog diary, Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet, crochet blanket, crochet blog, crochet design, crochet heart, crochet pattern, free crochet pattern, heart

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