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crochet block

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block

February 28, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

Hello and thank you for visiting my little crochet blog.   This is the latest of my bunny themed patterns which were written with Easter in mind but actually work at any time of year.    This bunny and carrot crochet block measures 6 inches/15 centimetres square when worked in chunky yarn.    The pattern works in any weight of yarn but you need to check that the tension has the same proportions (ratio of rows to stitches) if you want it to come up square shaped.    Worst case you will create oblong shaped blocks which might be fine too ?

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block – Materials

The block pictured here was worked in Stylecraft Special Chunky.   If you have read any of my recent posts you will know this is my current go to yarn.   There is a fab range of colours which you can see here at woolwarehouse which is where I normally buy all my yarn.    The block uses four colours a base colour which I will call Yarn A then a colour for the bunnies Yarn B (for bunny).   Finally, two colours for the carrots which I will call Yarn T for the carrot tops and Yarn C (for carrot) for the carrots themselves.

The colours I have used in the blocks in these photos are:

  • White – Yarn A
  • Mocha – Yarn B
  • Spice – Yarn C
  • Lime – Yarn T

This yarn uses a 6mm hook which means it grows nice and quickly!   In the worked examples I carry the yarn up the side of the work and you might notice that this is visible through the white.   To avoid this, if you don’t mind a few more ends, you can break the yarn and re-join.   You will need to work chain in Yarn A on the bunny and carrot rows though to provide the framework for the block.

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block – Instructions with UK crochet terms (for US terms please scroll down)

Foundation Chain

Each row of this block will have a starting chain and 21 stitches.   The bunny and carrot patterns use a repeat of three stitches with a one stitch gap and we will have an additional stitch at the edge to make the spacing work.   Chain 24 stitches for the foundation row. 

First Row

Starting into the fourth stitch from the hook, work a row of DC.   This should mean a row of 21DC will take you to the end of the chain.  Chain 2 and turn the work.

Second Row

Our starting chain of 2 forms the first stitch of the row so miss one and starting into the second stitch of the row of DCs again work a row of 21 DC then Chain 2 and turn the work.   If you find it is taking you more than 21DC to complete the row, you might be starting into the first rather than second stitch.  

Third and Fourth Rows

Repeat rows 1 and 2 so that you have four rows of DC with lovely straight edges!   At the end of the fourth row do not work the 2 Chain stitches.   Turn the work and we will put those two chain stitches at the start of the fifth row.

Fifth Row

As you work the first of your two chain to start the row, take up yarn B and lay it across yarn A behind the hook so that when you work the chain, Yarn B is caught up and joined into the work.   Work 2CH then one DC in Yarn A carrying Yarn B along the top of the work as shown.    Pick up Yarn B and work the bunny ear stitch which you will find in the posts via the links below.

Crochet Bunny Stitch – UK crochet terms

Crochet Bunny Stitch – US crochet terms

The bunny ear stitch has a four stitch repeat which should give you five sets of ears then a final 2DC in Yarn A to complete the row.   

If you are working these blocks as shown with the minimum of ends and do not mind the appearance of the carried yarn then break off yarn A at the end of this row and work 4 chain in Yarn B.  

If however, you are not carrying yarn then break off Yarn B and work 3 chain in Yarn A and one in yarn B ready to start the row of bunny bodies.

Sixth Row

Work a row of bunny bodies as shown in the Bunny Stitch post.    This row is worked entirely in Yarn B if you are carrying the yarn.   At the end of the row CH5 and slip stitch to join to the end of the row below and break off Yarn B

If you are not carrying the yarn then join in Yarn B for each bunny and break off Yarn B after each bunny body, working the three chain between in Yarn A.   At the end of the row you will need to make 5CH in Yarn A and join to the row below then break off Yarn A.

Seventh Row

Remember to turn the work so that you are on the right side.   The tail of the starting chain should be on your left as you look at the block.   Join in Yarn A to the gap beside the last bunny and working around the chain stitches make 2CH then 2DC.   Into each of the gaps between bunny bodies work 4DC until the end of the row when you need to work 3DC into the final gap.   Chain 2 and turn the work.

Eighth Row

As with Row 4 work a row of DC starting into the second stitch and it should take you 21DC to complete the row.   Turn the work ready to add in Yarn T for the carrot tops.

Ninth Row

Laying Yarn T over Yarn A work one Chain to join in the yarn then work another two chain in Yarn A.   Work 1Htr into the second stitch on the row below, then * work one chain in Yarn T.    The carrot top is a two stitch treble cluster. 

Starting the carrot tops
Start each carrot top with a chain in Yarn T

Wrap Yarn T around the hook and put the hook into the third stitch on the row then wrap the yarn round again and pull back through.  Next, wrap Yarn T around again and pull through the first two loops on the hook as though you were working a Tr.  

Working the first stitch of the carrot top
working the first stitch of the cluster

Wrap Yarn T around the hook and put the hook into the fourth stitch on the row and again wrap Yarn T around pull back through, wrap Yarn T round again and pull through the first two loops on the hook. Finally wrap Yarn T round the hook again and pull back through all the loops on the hook.  

final stage of carrot top
Carrot top just before the final yarn round and pull through to form the cluster

Gently pull Yarn A and Yarn T to ensure the tension is good then pick up Yarn A and work 2 HTR.   Repeat from * to the end of the row.

This row sounds complicated but once you get into the swing of it it is actually quite a quick row to work.   I will aim to put up a video once I can work out the technology but in the meantime I hope the photographs help!

At the end of this row break off Yarn T

Tenth Row – wrong side of the work

This row presents the same choice as with the bunny bodies row.   It is similar in that we will be working a row of TR clusters this time in Yarn C.  

If you are carrying the yarn and ok with the way that that looks then you need to break off Yarn A, join in Yarn C and work 4CH.    Make the carrots by working a four treble cluster in the same way you worked the cluster for the bunny bodies.   This time the first stitch goes into the first stitch on the previous row in Yarn T as shown below.

adding the carrot stage 1
adding the first of the cluster of stitches that make the carrot

The second and third stitches go into the next and larger stitch in Yarn T on the row below.  Finally work the last Tr of the cluster into the gap beneath the chain stitch in Yarn T just on the other side of the carrot top.   Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull back through all the stitches till you have one loop on the hook.

four stitch cluster carrot
four stitches that form the carrot. Just before final yarn round and pull through

Work three chain and start the next carrot!   At the end of the row CH4 and join to the end of the previous row.

chain stitch after carrot stitch
chain 3 between each carrot

If you are not carrying the yarn then work 4CH in Yarn A and join in Yarn C separately for each carrot, working the 3CH between carrots in Yarn A.   As I said, this method will result in A LOT of ends to finish off!

Eleventh Row

Work this row as Row 7 again making sure you are on the right side of the work.

Row 12 – 14

Work these in Yarn A starting with 2CH then work 21DC which should complete the row.

Row 15 – 16

Repeat rows five and six to add another row of bunnies.

Row 17 and 18

Repeat rows seven and eight.

Row 19

Work a final row of DC with 2CH to start the row.  Leave Yarn A attached and you are ready to work the border.

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block – Border worked on the right side.

First round

CH2 then turn the block so that the bunnies are running vertically and you are working along the side of the block.   Along the side of the block work 21 DC evenly spaced along the piece.   As a guide you should have worked 10 DC by the time you are alongside the middle of the carrot row.  

At the end of the row chain 2 turn the block through 90 degrees and work 22 DC into the starting row, ending the row with 2CH.

Turn the block again and work 22 DC spaced evenly along the other second side of the block.   At the end of the row CH2 and work 22 DC along the top of the block then CH2 and slip stitch to join to the starting chain.

Second Round

Work a round of DC with 2CH at each corner.  Start the round with 2CH and end with a slip stitch to join.

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block
Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block – Instructions with US crochet terms (for UK terms please scroll up)

Foundation Chain

Each row of this block will have a starting chain and 21 stitches.   The bunny and carrot patterns use a repeat of three stitches with a one stitch gap and we will have an additional stitch at the edge to make the spacing work.   Chain 24 stitches for the foundation row. 

First Row

Starting into the fourth stitch from the hook, work a row of SC.   This should mean a row of 21SC will take you to the end of the chain.  Chain 2 and turn the work.

Second Row

Our starting chain of 2 forms the first stitch of the row so miss one and starting into the second stitch of the row of SCs again work a row of 21 SC then Chain 2 and turn the work.   If you find it is taking you more than 21SC to complete the row, you might be starting into the first rather than second stitch.  

Third and Fourth Rows

Repeat rows 1 and 2 so that you have four rows of SC with lovely straight edges!   At the end of the fourth row do not work the 2 Chain stitches.   Turn the work and we will put those two chain stitches at the start of the fifth row.

Fifth Row

As you work the first of your two chain to start the row, take up yarn B and lay it across yarn A behind the hook so that when you work the chain, Yarn B is caught up and joined into the work.   Work 2CH then one SC in Yarn A carrying Yarn B along the top of the work as shown.    Pick up Yarn B and work the bunny ear stitch which you will find in the posts via the links below.

Crochet Bunny Stitch – US crochet terms

The bunny ear stitch has a four stitch repeat which should give you five sets of ears then a final 2SC in Yarn A to complete the row.   

If you are working these blocks as shown with the minimum of ends and do not mind the appearance of the carried yarn then break off yarn A at the end of this row and work 4 chain in Yarn B.  

If however, you are not carrying yarn then break off Yarn B and work 3 chain in Yarn A and one in yarn B ready to start the row of bunny bodies.

Sixth Row

Work a row of bunny bodies as shown in the Bunny Stitch post.    This row is worked entirely in Yarn B if you are carrying the yarn.   At the end of the row CH5 and slip stitch to join to the end of the row below and break off Yarn B

If you are not carrying the yarn then join in Yarn B for each bunny and break off Yarn B after each bunny body, working the three chain between in Yarn A.   At the end of the row you will need to make 5CH in Yarn A and join to the row below then break off Yarn A.

Seventh Row

Remember to turn the work so that you are on the right side.   The tail of the starting chain should be on your left as you look at the block.   Join in Yarn A to the gap beside the last bunny and working around the chain stitches make 2CH then 2SC.   Into each of the gaps between bunny bodies work 4SC until the end of the row when you need to work 3SC into the final gap.   Chain 2 and turn the work.

Eighth Row

As with Row 4 work a row of SC starting into the second stitch and it should take you 21SC to complete the row.   Turn the work ready to add in Yarn T for the carrot tops.

Ninth Row

Laying Yarn T over Yarn A work one Chain to join in the yarn then work another two chain in Yarn A.   Work 1HDC into the second stitch on the row below, then * work one chain in Yarn T.    The carrot top is a two stitch DC cluster. 

Starting the carrot tops
Start each carrot top with a chain – YarnT

Wrap Yarn T around the hook and put the hook into the third stitch on the row then wrap the yarn round again and pull back through.  Next, wrap Yarn T around again and pull through the first two loops on the hook as though you were working a DC.  

Working the first stitch of the carrot top
working the first stitch of the cluster

Wrap Yarn T around the hook and put the hook into the fourth stitch on the row and again wrap Yarn T around pull back through, wrap Yarn T round again and pull through the first two loops on the hook. Finally wrap Yarn T round the hook again and pull back through all the loops on the hook.  

final stage of carrot top
Carrot top just before the final yarn round and pull through to form the cluster

Gently pull Yarn A and Yarn T to ensure the tension is good then pick up Yarn A and work 2 HDC.   Repeat from * to the end of the row.

This row sounds complicated but once you get into the swing of it it is actually quite a quick row to work.   I will aim to put up a video once I can work out the technology but in the meantime I hope the photographs help!

At the end of this row break off Yarn T

Tenth Row – wrong side of the work

This row presents the same choice as with the bunny bodies row.   It is similar in that we will be working a row of 4DC clusters this time in Yarn C.  

If you are carrying the yarn and ok with the way that that looks then you need to break off Yarn A, join in Yarn C and work 4CH.    Make the carrots by working a four treble cluster in the same way you worked the cluster for the bunny bodies.   This time the first stitch goes into the first stitch on the previous row in Yarn T as shown below.

adding the carrot stage 1
adding the first of the cluster of stitches that make the carrot

The second and third stitches go into the next and larger stitch in Yarn T on the row below.  Finally work the last DC of the cluster into the gap beneath the chain stitch in Yarn T just on the other side of the carrot top.   Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull back through all the stitches till you have one loop on the hook.

four stitch cluster carrot
four stitches that form the carrot. Just before final yarn round and pull through

Work three chain and start the next carrot!   At the end of the row CH4 and join to the end of the previous row.

chain stitch after carrot stitch
chain 3 between each carrot

If you are not carrying the yarn then work 4CH in Yarn A and join in Yarn C separately for each carrot, working the 3CH between carrots in Yarn A.   As I said, this method will result in A LOT of ends to finish off!

Eleventh Row

Work this row as Row 7 again making sure you are on the right side of the work.

Row 12 – 14

Work these in Yarn A starting with 2CH then work 21SC which should complete the row.

Row 15 – 16

Repeat rows five and six to add another row of bunnies.

Row 17 and 18

Repeat rows seven and eight.

Row 19

Work a final row of SC with 2CH to start the row.  Leave Yarn A attached and you are ready to work the border.

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block – Border worked on the right side.

First round

CH2 then turn the block so that the bunnies are running vertically and you are working along the side of the block.   Along the side of the block work 21 SC evenly spaced along the piece.   As a guide you should have worked 10 SC by the time you are alongside the middle of the carrot row.  

At the end of the row chain 2 turn the block through 90 degrees and work 22 DC into the starting row, ending the row with 2CH.

Turn the block again and work 22 SC spaced evenly along the other second side of the block.   At the end of the row CH2 and work 22 SC along the top of the block then CH2 and slip stitch to join to the starting chain.

Second Round

Work a round of SC with 2CH at each corner.  Start the round with 2CH and end with a slip stitch to join.

Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block
Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block

There you have it – a completed Bunny and Carrot Crochet Block.    I hope you like it.   I plan to use it in a baby blanket so will be trialling it in DK and also in an Easter throw.

If you like the bunny stitch there are a few other patterns I have already put out that use this stitch.   These include headbands and hats with a scarf and beanie hat to follow.    Please join my mailing list or check back in here another day to find my latest free patterns.   Happy crocheting!

Annie ?

Filed Under: Crochet patterns Tagged With: bunny crochet, crochet, crochet afghan, crochet blanket, crochet block, crochet lapghan, crochet square, easter, Easter Bunny, Easter crochet, free crochet pattern, Free pattern, Rabbit crochet

Log Cabin Love crochet block

January 24, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

Here is my latest heart themed block. This one is a great stash buster! You can use any scraps of yarn you have to make the log cabin love crochet block. However, the yarn does need to be roughly the same weight.

To make the examples shown here I have used Stylecraft Special Chunky and a 6mm hook. You can see the range here where I buy all my yarn at Woolwarehouse.

It is possible to mix different yarn types and I can cover this in a separate post if you would find it helpful. Please leave a comment to let me know.

NOTE – This pattern will be a lot easier to follow when I add photos which will follow in the coming week – before end Jan 21. If you find it hard to follow please come back when the photos are up. 🙂

Log Cabin Love crochet block pattern – UK crochet terms

NOTE – for US terms simply work DC where the pattern states Tr.

The heart of the pattern (see what I did there?) is the crochet heart. To make the heart you need to follow this link to my new large crochet heart pattern. The link takes you to another page on my blog where you will find the free pattern in both UK and US crochet terms. I made a few of these hearts then started to build the log cabin panels around them.

This diagram shows you the order in which the panels are worked.

log cabin love block diagram
log cabin love block panels

First panel

With your crochet heart face up this panel sits down the left hand side of the heart. We will be working from top to bottom of the block. The first four blocks have foundation rows made of chain stitch or slip stitches. This is because they frame the heart and are not joined to anything else in places.

First row
log cabin love panel 1
start by adding foundation for panel 1

Make a loop to start and chain 3. Count the stitches up the left side from the bottom of the heart with the bottom stitch being #1, slip stitch into #13 to attach your chain to the heart. Continue with 12 more chain. Turn the work ready for the second row.

log cabin love panel 1 - second row
starting the second row of panel 1
Second row

(wrong side facing) work 1Tr into the fourth chain from the hook. Continue working Tr along this row, 7 more Tr will take you to the slip stitch on the edge of the heart. Work 1 Tr into this stitch then 1Tr into each of the three chain stitches to reach the end of the row. CH3 and turn the work ready for the final row of this first panel.

log cabin love block - end of second row of panel 1
3CH at end of second row of panel 1
Third row

(right side facing) miss the first stitch and work 12 Trs to take you to the end of the row. Fasten off the yarn.

Second panel

With your crochet heart face up this panel sits across the top of the heart. We will be working from right to left of the block.

First row

Make a loop to start and chain 3. Slip stitch into the top of the right side of the heart to attach your chain to the heart. Continue with 6 more chain stitches then slip stitch to attach the chain to the top of the left side of the heart. Chain 3 then slip stitch into the edge of the top of panel 1 and work 3 more slip stitches across the top of block 1 to take you to the top left hand corner of the log cabin love block. Chain 3 and turn the work ready for the second row.

adding the second panel of the log cabin love block
foundation row for the second panel
Second row

(wrong side facing) miss the first stitch then work 3Tr into the slip stitches across the top of block 1. Work 3Tr into the three chain stitches then one Tr into the slip stitch at the top of the left side of the heart. Work 6Tr into the middle chain section then 1 Tr into the slip stitch at the top of the right side of the heart. Finally work 1Tr into each of the three chain stitches to reach the end of the row. CH3 and turn the work ready for the final row of the second panel.

Third row

(right side facing) miss the first stitch and work 17 Tr to take you to the end of the row. Fasten off the yarn.

Third panel

With your crochet heart face up this panel sits down the right hand side of the heart. We will be working from the bottom to the top of the block.

First row

Make a loop to start and chain 9. Count the stitches up the right side from the bottom of the heart with the bottom stitch being #1, slip stitch into #13 to attach your chain to the heart. Continue with 3 more chain then slip stitch into the bottom corner of panel 2 and work 3 more slip stitches across the end of panel 2. Turn the work ready for the second row.

adding the third panel of the log cabin love block
start the 3rd panel with a chain then slip stitch to the heart
Second row

(wrong side facing) miss the first stitch and work 3 Tr into the slip stitches on the previous row. Work 1Tr into each of the 3CH then one Tr into the slip stitch at the right side of the heart. Finally work into the Chain 9 Tr to reach the bottom of this panel. CH3 and turn the work ready for the final row of this third panel.

Third row

(right side facing) miss the first stitch and work 16 Tr to take you to the end of the row. Fasten off the yarn.

Fourth panel

With your crochet heart face up this panel sits across the bottom of the heart. We will be working from left to right across the bottom of the block.

First row

Attach your yarn to the outside corner of the bottom of panel 1. Slip stich 4 across the bottom of panel 1 then chain six and work one slip stitch into the bottom of the heart. Chain 6 and work four slip stitches across the bottom of panel 3. Chain 3 and turn the work ready for the second row.

foundation row for the fourth panel of the log cabin love block
foundation row for the fourth panel of the block
Second row

(wrong side facing) Miss the first stitch then work 3Tr into slip stitches across the bottom of panel 3. Continue working 6 Tr into the chain and 1 Tr into the slip stitch at the bottom of the heart. Work 6 Tr into the chain and four Tr into the slip stitches across the bottom of panel 1 to reach the end of the row. CH3 and turn the work ready for the final row of this fourth block.

Third row

(right side facing) miss the first stitch and work 20 Tr to take you to the end of the row. Fasten off the yarn.

Fifth panel

With your crochet heart face up this panel sits along the right side of the block next to panel 3. We will be working from the bottom to the top of the block. Things get easier now with no need for a foundation row.

First row

(right side facing) Attach your yarn to the bottom right corner of the work – at the corner of panel 4 and chain 3. Work 2 Tr into the end of panel 4 then work 17 Tr along panel 3. Chain 3 and turn the work ready for the second row.

fifth panel of the log cabin love block
adding the fifth panel
Second row

(wrong side facing) miss the first stitch and work 19 Tr to take you to the end of the row. Fasten off the yarn.

Sixth panel

With your crochet heart face up this panel sits across the bottom of the block below panel 4. We will be working from the right to left side of the block.

First row

(wrong side facing) Attach your yarn to the bottom right corner of the work – at the corner of panel 5 and chain 3. Work 2 Tr into the end of panel 5 then work 21 Tr along panel 4. Chain 3 and turn the work ready for the second row.

sixth panel of the log cabin love block
adding panel six to the block
Second row

(right side facing) miss the first stitch and work 23 Tr to take you to the end of the row. Fasten off the yarn.

Seventh panel

With your crochet heart face up this panel sits along the right side of the block next to panel 5. We will be working from the bottom to the top of the block.

First row

(right side facing) Attach your yarn to the bottom right corner of the work – at the corner of panel 5 and chain 3. Work 2 Tr into the end of panel 5 then work 20 Tr along panel 3. Chain 3 and turn the work ready for the second row.

adding panel seven to the log cabin love block
adding panel seven to the block
Second row

(wrong side facing) miss the first stitch and work 22 Tr to take you to the end of the row. Fasten off the yarn.

Eighth panel

With your crochet heart face up this panel sits across the bottom of the block below panel 6. We will be working from the right to left side of the block.

First row

(wrong side facing) Attach your yarn to the bottom right corner of the work – at the corner of panel 7 and chain 3. Work 2 Tr into the end of panel 7 then work 24 Tr along panel 6. Chain 3 and turn the work ready for the second row.

adding the final panel to the log cabin love block
adding the final panel!
Second row

(right side facing) miss the first stitch and work 26 Tr to take you to the end of the row. Fasten off the yarn.

Log Cabin Love crochet block
Log Cabin Love crochet block

I hope you love this Log Cabin Love crochet block and have fun making log cabin blankets to share the love. I have some suggested blanket layouts which I will post separately but I wanted to get his pattern out there! Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Filed Under: Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet, crochet block, crochet blocks, crochet design, crochet heart, crochet heart block, crochet log cabin block, crochet project, free crochet pattern, Free pattern, log cabin block

Free pattern for Striped Block

April 19, 2019 by Annie Leave a Comment

This post includes a free pattern for a striped block which can be used in a variety of blanket designs. The pattern below makes a crochet block of five inches square when worked up in a super chunky yarn on size 9mm needles. To make a larger square simply increase the number of stitches and rows. You can see how I used this block in one of my blanket designs here.

Striped Block - crochet

The basic pattern below produces seven stripes of two rows each. If you want your block to have broader stripes work more rows before changing colour. When using just two colours and changing colour every two rows you do not need to cut the yarn. Keeping the twists to a minimum you can work the border over the carried yarn and save yourself from a lot of finishing off! The pictures below show the border being worked in this way.

Edging the Striped Block - crochet

UK terms

With yarn A

First row – Chain 12 then turn.

Second row – working into second chain from the hook, 11DC then turn.

Join in yarn B

Third row – chain 2, DC1, turn.

Fourth row – chain 1, DC11, turn.

Change yarn back to A for the two colour stripe block or change to yarn C if you are using multiple colours.

repeat Third and Fourth row until you have seven stripes.

Border round 1 – Join in the border colour Chain 2, DC11, the last of these 11DCs is in the corner of the square. Chain 2, turn the block so that you are working along the side of the square and work a second DC into the corner. Work another 9DC evenly spaced along the side of the block then one DC into the bottom corner as shown below. Chain 2 then work second DC into the corner. Work a further 9DC across the bottom of the square then into the final corner work 1DC, 2CH, 1DC. Work a further 9DC evenly spaced along the final side of the square and finally work one DC into the corner, 2CH and slip stitch to join to the 2CH at the start point of the round.

Border round 2 – CH2 then DC into each of the stitches working 1DC, 2CH, 1DC into each corner. Complete the round then join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start point and finish off.

US terms

With yarn A

First row – Chain 12 then turn.

Second row – working into second chain from the hook, 11SC then turn.

Join in yarn B

Third row – chain 2, SC1, turn.

Fourth row – chain 1, SC11, turn.

Change yarn back to A for the two colour stripe block or change to yarn C if you are using multiple colours.

repeat Third and Fourth row until you have seven stripes.

Border round 1 – Join in the border colour Chain 2, SC11, the last of these 11SCs is in the corner of the square. Chain 2, turn the block so that you are working along the side of the square and work a second SC into the corner. Work another 9SC evenly spaced along the side of the block then one SC into the bottom corner as shown below. Chain 2 then work second SC into the corner. Work a further 9SC across the bottom of the square then into the final corner work 1SC, 2CH, 1SC. Work a further 9SC evenly spaced along the final side of the square and finally work one SC into the corner, 2CH and slip stitch to join to the 2CH at the start point of the round.

Border round 2 – CH2 then SC into each of the stitches working 1SC, 2CH, 1SC into each corner. Complete the round then join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start point and finish off.

Hope you enjoy making lots of striped squares and striped blankets. This is a great stash buster square and is a great way to use up odds and ends or salvaged yarn which tends to be in small balls! You can read about my yarn salvage tips here.

Please share pictures of your projects and link back to this page if you reuse my pattern. Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Filed Under: Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet, crochet block, free crochet pattern, Free pattern, striped block, uk and us terms, uk crochet terms, us crochet terms

Full Heart Crochet Block

April 19, 2019 by Annie Leave a Comment

This pattern builds on a heart motif. The basic pattern for my crochet heart can be found here. This pattern uses a slightly adapted version and then puts that heart into the centre of a crochet block. You can use the crochet block to make blankets or cushion covers in any design you like!

The pattern is shown below in both UK and US versions.

Heart Motif

UK terms

First round – Make a magic loop, chain 3. Working into the magic loop, 3 dtr, 3tr, chain 1, 1dtr, chain 1, 3tr, 3dtr, chain 2. Slip stitch into magic loop and pull the thread to close the centre of the heart.

Second round – 2 sl stitch into the gap behind the three chain from the first round.  Work 3dc into the next stitch (top of the left side of the heart). Work 3 dc into the next stitch and 2 dc into the following stitch.   Work 4 dc to take you to the bottom loop of the heart.  Work 3dc into the bottom stitch of the heart then 4 dc up the right side of the heart. Work 2dc, 3dc, 2dc into the next three stitches then 2 sl stitches. Work one final slip stitch into the centre of the heart.

Third round – Work 2 slip stitches then 2dc into the next four stitches. Work 7 dc down the left side of the heart then 3dc into the bottom stitch of the heart. Work 6dc up the right hand side of the heart then 2dc into the next four stitches. Work 2 slip stitches and finish off to complete the heart.

US terms

First round – Make a magic loop then chain 3. Working into the magic loop, 3TRC, 3DC, chain 1, 1TRC, chain 1, 3DC, 3TRC. Chain 2 and slip stitch into magic loop and pull the thread to close the centre of the heart.

Second round – 2 sl stitch into the gap behind the three chain from the first round.  Work 3SC into the next stitch (top of the left side of the heart). Work 3 SC into the next stitch and 2SC into the following stitch.   Work 4SC to take you to the bottom loop of the heart.  Work 3SC into the bottom stitch of the heart then 4SC up the right side of the heart. Work 2SC, 3SC, 2SC into the next three stitches. Work 2 sl stitches and one final slip stitch into the centre of the heart.

Third round – Work 2 slip stitches then 2SC into each of the next four stitches. Work 7 SC, then 3SC into the bottom stitch of the heart. Work 6SC up the right side of the heart then 2SC into each of the next four stitches. Work 2 slip stitches and finish off to complete the heart.

Now you should have a heart motif ready to be placed in the centre of a block.

Putting the Heart into a Crochet Block

The instructions below start with the heart motif and a second yarn colour. The block is more open at the top to show the heart shape better. This picture shows the ‘touch points’ of the outer square on the heart at the top.

UK Terms

First round – counting the bottom DC as 1, count stitches up the right hand side of the heart. Join yarn in to stitch 10 and work 2CH, 1DC into next stitch then 4CH. Miss the next three stitches and work 2DC into the top of the right hand side of the heart. Work 4CH and 2DC into the top of the let hand side of the heart. Work 4CH. Miss the next three stitches and work 3DC into the left hand side of the heart. Complete the round as follows: 2HTR, 2TR, 1DTR, 1TR, 1HTR. Work 3DC into the stitch at the bottom of the heart, 1HTR, 1TR, 1DTR, 2TR, 2HTR, 1DC and join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

Second round – CH2, 1DC then working into corner chain 2DC, 2CH, 2DC. Work 2DC into the stitches joined to top of right side of the heart. Work 3 DC into the chain at the top of the heart. Work 2DC into the stitches at the top of the left side of the heart. Working into the corner chain 2DC, 2CH, 2DC. Work down the left side of the heart, 4DC, 2HTR, 1TR. Into the next stitch work 1TR, 2CH, 1TR. Carry on round the bottom of the heart as follows: 2HTR, 3DC, 2HTR. Into the next stitch work 1TR, 2CH, 1TR. Complete the round as follows, 1TR, 2HTR, 2DC. Join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

Third round – CH2 work DC into each stitch as follows; 3DC to first corner. Work 1DC, 2CH, 1DC into the corner then 11DC across the top of the block. Work 1DC, 2CH, 1DC into the second corner. Work 10 DC down the side of the block then work 2DC, 2CH, 2DC into the bottom corner. Work 9 DC across the bottom of the block. Work 2DC, 2CH, 2DC into the final corner then 6DC up the last side. Join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

US Terms

First round – counting the bottom SC as 1, count stitches up the right hand side of the heart. Join yarn in to stitch 10 and work 2CH, 1SC into next stitch then 4CH. Miss the next three stitches and work 2SC into the top of the right hand side of the heart. Work 4CH and 2SC into the top of the let hand side of the heart. Work 4CH. Miss the next three stitches and work 3SC into the left hand side of the heart. Complete the round as follows: 2HDC, 2DC, 1TR, 1DC, 1HDC. Work 3SC into the stitch at the bottom of the heart. Work 1HDC, 1DC 1TR, 2DC, 2HDC, 1SC up the right side of the heat. Join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

Second round – CH2, 1SC then working into corner chain 2SC, 2CH, 2SC. Work SC into the two stitches at the top of right side of the heart. Work 3 SC into the chain at the top of the heart. Work SC into the two stitches at the top of the left side of the heart . Work
2SC, 2CH, 2SC into the corner chain. Work down the left side of the heart, 4SC, 2HDC, 1DC. Into the next stitch work 1DC, 2CH, 1DC. Carry on round the bottom of the heart as follows: 2HDC, 3SC, 2HDC. Into the next stitch work 1DC, 2CH, 1DC. Complete the round as follows, 1DC, 2HDC, 2SC. Join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

Third round – CH2 work SC into each stitch as follows; 3SC to first corner Work 1SC, 2CH, 1SC into the corner. Work 11SC across the top of the block and 1SC, 2CH, 1SC into the second corner. Work 10 SC down the side of the block then work 2SC, 2CH, 2SC into the bottom corner. Work 9 SC across the bottom of the block. Work 2SC, 2CH, 2SC into the final corner then 6SC up the last side. Join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

And there you have the Full Heart Block. I hope you like it! You are welcome to use it free of charge but not to resell the pattern without explicit permission. Please share photos of any projects you make using this design. If you post anything online please share a link back to this page.

Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Filed Under: Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet block, crochet heart square, crochet square, free crochet pattern, Free pattern, heart, heart square, uk and us crochet terms, uk and us instructions

Daisy block

July 21, 2018 by Annie Leave a Comment

Here is the pattern for my latest block design.   I have worked up a few examples, playing with colours and yarn types.   I plan to add a row of these to my spring flowers blanket.   This is the block worked up in those colours using Stylecraft DK yarn and a 4mm hook.

I love playing with an ombré effect.   Here is the block using shades of pink radiating from a white centre.   The white can only be seen from the back!   The yarn here is Drops Paris worked on a 5mm hook.

Here are a couple of the blocks in Drops Muskat, back on a 4mm hook.  One has a coloured flower against a white background.   I really like the sheen on this yarn.   I will put a proper review into my next blog update.   I think a baby blanket with coloured flowers against white would be sweet.   The photo also shows the reverse with white flowers on blue.   You can see I became quite attached to this design quite quickly!

Here is the pattern 

Daisy block – UK terms

Foundation round 1 – Make a magic loop, chain 2, 11 DC into the loop, pull closed and join with a slip stitch

Round 2 – (chain 6, slip stitch into the root of the chain to form a loop, slip stitch into the next 2 stitches) x 5, chain 6, slip stitch into the root of the chain to form a loop, slip stitch into the base of the first chain loop. You should have a circle with six loops.

Round 3 – (7 DC into the first six chain loop, slip stitch into the stitch between loops) x 6, slip stitch to join to start point. You should have six petals.

Round 4 – (chain three, slip stitch into the stitch between the petals) x 6, slip stitch to join to the start point. Tip – These chains need to sit behind the petals but will probably be in front as you work them. Don’t worry, you can pull the petals back through at the end of the round.

Round 5 – (work 3 DC into the three chain loop, 1CH) x 6, slip stitch to join to start point.

Round 6 – chain 3, 2 Tr, (2Tr into the chain space, 3 Tr) x 2, 1Tr into the chain space, (3Tr, 2Tr into the chain space) x 2, 3Tr, 1Tr into the chain space. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting 3 chains.

Round 7 – chain 4, (Tr, chain 1) x 27, join with a slip stitch to the third chain in the 4 chains that started the round.

Round 8 – this is where we square the circle! Ch2, DC into the first chain space. Complete the round by working two stitches into each chain space as follows: (DC HTr, HTr Tr, Tr DTr, 2 chain, DTr Tr, Tr HTr, HTr DC, 2DC) x 3, DC HTr, HTr Tr, Tr DTr, 2 chain, DTr Tr, Tr HTr, HTr DC, slip stitch to join to the top of the two chains the started the round.

Round 9 – 2ch, work DC into each stitch. At the corners work 2DC, 2ch, 2DC into the two chain space. At the end of the round join with a slip stitch to the top of the two chains the started the round. And you are done! Sit back and admire or plan the project you are going to make with this lovely little block!

Daisy block – US terms

Foundation round 1 – Make a magic loop, chain 2, 11 SC into the loop, pull closed and join with a slip stitch

Round 2 – (chain 6, slip stitch into the root of the chain to form a loop, slip stitch into the next 2 stitches) x 5, chain 6, slip stitch into the root of the chain to form a loop, slip stitch into the base of the first chain loop. You should have a circle with six loops.

Round 3 – (7 SC into the first six chain loop, slip stitch into the stitch between loops) x 6, slip stitch to join to start point. You should have six petals.

Round 4 – (chain three, slip stitch into the stitch between the petals) x 6, slip stitch to join to the start point. Tip – These chains need to sit behind the petals but will probably be in front as you work them. Don’t worry, you can pull the petals back through at the end of the round.

Round 5 – (work 3 SC into the three chain loop, 1CH) x 6, slip stitch to join to start point.

Round 6 – chain 3, 2 DC (2DC into the chain space, 3 DC) x 2, 1DC into the chain space, (3DC, 2DC into the chain space) x 2, 3DC, 1DC into the chain space. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting 3 chains.

Round 7 – chain 4, (DC, chain 1) x 27, join with a slip stitch to the third chain in the 4 chains that started the round.

Round 8 – this is where we square the circle! Ch2, SC into the first chain space. Complete the round by working two stitches into each chain space as follows: (SC HDC, HDC DC, DC TR, 2 chain, TR DC, DC HDC, HDC SC, 2SC) x 3, SC HDC, HDC DC, DC TR, 2 chain, TR DC, DC HDC, HDC SC, slip stitch to join to the top of the two chains the started the round.

Round 9 – 2ch, work SC into each stitch. At the corners work 2SC, 2ch, 2SC into the two chain space. At the end of the round join with a slip stitch to the top of the two chains the started the round. And you are done!

I hope you enjoy this pattern as much as I enjoyed creating it.   Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Filed Under: Craft projects, Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet block, flower block, Free pattern, ombre, uk and us instructions, yarn

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