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crochet block

Free pattern for Striped Block

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This post includes a free pattern for a striped block which can be used in a variety of blanket designs. The pattern below makes a crochet block of five inches square when worked up in a super chunky yarn on size 9mm needles. To make a larger square simply increase the number of stitches and rows. You can see how I used this block in one of my blanket designs here.

Striped Block - crochet

The basic pattern below produces seven stripes of two rows each. If you want your block to have broader stripes work more rows before changing colour. When using just two colours and changing colour every two rows you do not need to cut the yarn. Keeping the twists to a minimum you can work the border over the carried yarn and save yourself from a lot of finishing off! The pictures below show the border being worked in this way.

Edging the Striped Block - crochet

UK terms

With yarn A

First row – Chain 12 then turn.

Second row – working into second chain from the hook, 11DC then turn.

Join in yarn B

Third row – chain 2, DC1, turn.

Fourth row – chain 1, DC11, turn.

Change yarn back to A for the two colour stripe block or change to yarn C if you are using multiple colours.

repeat Third and Fourth row until you have seven stripes.

Border round 1 – Join in the border colour Chain 2, DC11, the last of these 11DCs is in the corner of the square. Chain 2, turn the block so that you are working along the side of the square and work a second DC into the corner. Work another 9DC evenly spaced along the side of the block then one DC into the bottom corner as shown below. Chain 2 then work second DC into the corner. Work a further 9DC across the bottom of the square then into the final corner work 1DC, 2CH, 1DC. Work a further 9DC evenly spaced along the final side of the square and finally work one DC into the corner, 2CH and slip stitch to join to the 2CH at the start point of the round.

Border round 2 – CH2 then DC into each of the stitches working 1DC, 2CH, 1DC into each corner. Complete the round then join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start point and finish off.

US terms

With yarn A

First row – Chain 12 then turn.

Second row – working into second chain from the hook, 11SC then turn.

Join in yarn B

Third row – chain 2, SC1, turn.

Fourth row – chain 1, SC11, turn.

Change yarn back to A for the two colour stripe block or change to yarn C if you are using multiple colours.

repeat Third and Fourth row until you have seven stripes.

Border round 1 – Join in the border colour Chain 2, SC11, the last of these 11SCs is in the corner of the square. Chain 2, turn the block so that you are working along the side of the square and work a second SC into the corner. Work another 9SC evenly spaced along the side of the block then one SC into the bottom corner as shown below. Chain 2 then work second SC into the corner. Work a further 9SC across the bottom of the square then into the final corner work 1SC, 2CH, 1SC. Work a further 9SC evenly spaced along the final side of the square and finally work one SC into the corner, 2CH and slip stitch to join to the 2CH at the start point of the round.

Border round 2 – CH2 then SC into each of the stitches working 1SC, 2CH, 1SC into each corner. Complete the round then join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start point and finish off.

Hope you enjoy making lots of striped squares and striped blankets. This is a great stash buster square and is a great way to use up odds and ends or salvaged yarn which tends to be in small balls! You can read about my yarn salvage tips here.

Please share pictures of your projects and link back to this page if you reuse my pattern. Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Full Heart Crochet Block

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This pattern builds on a heart motif. The basic pattern for my crochet heart can be found here. This pattern uses a slightly adapted version and then puts that heart into the centre of a crochet block. You can use the crochet block to make blankets or cushion covers in any design you like!

The pattern is shown below in both UK and US versions.

Heart Motif

UK terms

First round – Make a magic loop, chain 3. Working into the magic loop, 3 dtr, 3tr, chain 1, 1dtr, chain 1, 3tr, 3dtr, chain 2. Slip stitch into magic loop and pull the thread to close the centre of the heart.

Second round – 2 sl stitch into the gap behind the three chain from the first round.  Work 3dc into the next stitch (top of the left side of the heart). Work 3 dc into the next stitch and 2 dc into the following stitch.   Work 4 dc to take you to the bottom loop of the heart.  Work 3dc into the bottom stitch of the heart then 4 dc up the right side of the heart. Work 2dc, 3dc, 2dc into the next three stitches then 2 sl stitches. Work one final slip stitch into the centre of the heart.

Third round – Work 2 slip stitches then 2dc into the next four stitches. Work 7 dc down the left side of the heart then 3dc into the bottom stitch of the heart. Work 6dc up the right hand side of the heart then 2dc into the next four stitches. Work 2 slip stitches and finish off to complete the heart.

US terms

First round – Make a magic loop then chain 3. Working into the magic loop, 3TRC, 3DC, chain 1, 1TRC, chain 1, 3DC, 3TRC. Chain 2 and slip stitch into magic loop and pull the thread to close the centre of the heart.

Second round – 2 sl stitch into the gap behind the three chain from the first round.  Work 3SC into the next stitch (top of the left side of the heart). Work 3 SC into the next stitch and 2SC into the following stitch.   Work 4SC to take you to the bottom loop of the heart.  Work 3SC into the bottom stitch of the heart then 4SC up the right side of the heart. Work 2SC, 3SC, 2SC into the next three stitches. Work 2 sl stitches and one final slip stitch into the centre of the heart.

Third round – Work 2 slip stitches then 2SC into each of the next four stitches. Work 7 SC, then 3SC into the bottom stitch of the heart. Work 6SC up the right side of the heart then 2SC into each of the next four stitches. Work 2 slip stitches and finish off to complete the heart.

Now you should have a heart motif ready to be placed in the centre of a block.

Putting the Heart into a Crochet Block

The instructions below start with the heart motif and a second yarn colour. The block is more open at the top to show the heart shape better. This picture shows the ‘touch points’ of the outer square on the heart at the top.

UK Terms

First round – counting the bottom DC as 1, count stitches up the right hand side of the heart. Join yarn in to stitch 10 and work 2CH, 1DC into next stitch then 4CH. Miss the next three stitches and work 2DC into the top of the right hand side of the heart. Work 4CH and 2DC into the top of the let hand side of the heart. Work 4CH. Miss the next three stitches and work 3DC into the left hand side of the heart. Complete the round as follows: 2HTR, 2TR, 1DTR, 1TR, 1HTR. Work 3DC into the stitch at the bottom of the heart, 1HTR, 1TR, 1DTR, 2TR, 2HTR, 1DC and join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

Second round – CH2, 1DC then working into corner chain 2DC, 2CH, 2DC. Work 2DC into the stitches joined to top of right side of the heart. Work 3 DC into the chain at the top of the heart. Work 2DC into the stitches at the top of the left side of the heart. Working into the corner chain 2DC, 2CH, 2DC. Work down the left side of the heart, 4DC, 2HTR, 1TR. Into the next stitch work 1TR, 2CH, 1TR. Carry on round the bottom of the heart as follows: 2HTR, 3DC, 2HTR. Into the next stitch work 1TR, 2CH, 1TR. Complete the round as follows, 1TR, 2HTR, 2DC. Join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

Third round – CH2 work DC into each stitch as follows; 3DC to first corner. Work 1DC, 2CH, 1DC into the corner then 11DC across the top of the block. Work 1DC, 2CH, 1DC into the second corner. Work 10 DC down the side of the block then work 2DC, 2CH, 2DC into the bottom corner. Work 9 DC across the bottom of the block. Work 2DC, 2CH, 2DC into the final corner then 6DC up the last side. Join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

US Terms

First round – counting the bottom SC as 1, count stitches up the right hand side of the heart. Join yarn in to stitch 10 and work 2CH, 1SC into next stitch then 4CH. Miss the next three stitches and work 2SC into the top of the right hand side of the heart. Work 4CH and 2SC into the top of the let hand side of the heart. Work 4CH. Miss the next three stitches and work 3SC into the left hand side of the heart. Complete the round as follows: 2HDC, 2DC, 1TR, 1DC, 1HDC. Work 3SC into the stitch at the bottom of the heart. Work 1HDC, 1DC 1TR, 2DC, 2HDC, 1SC up the right side of the heat. Join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

Second round – CH2, 1SC then working into corner chain 2SC, 2CH, 2SC. Work SC into the two stitches at the top of right side of the heart. Work 3 SC into the chain at the top of the heart. Work SC into the two stitches at the top of the left side of the heart . Work
2SC, 2CH, 2SC into the corner chain. Work down the left side of the heart, 4SC, 2HDC, 1DC. Into the next stitch work 1DC, 2CH, 1DC. Carry on round the bottom of the heart as follows: 2HDC, 3SC, 2HDC. Into the next stitch work 1DC, 2CH, 1DC. Complete the round as follows, 1DC, 2HDC, 2SC. Join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

Third round – CH2 work SC into each stitch as follows; 3SC to first corner Work 1SC, 2CH, 1SC into the corner. Work 11SC across the top of the block and 1SC, 2CH, 1SC into the second corner. Work 10 SC down the side of the block then work 2SC, 2CH, 2SC into the bottom corner. Work 9 SC across the bottom of the block. Work 2SC, 2CH, 2SC into the final corner then 6SC up the last side. Join with a slip stitch to the 2CH at the start of the round.

And there you have the Full Heart Block. I hope you like it! You are welcome to use it free of charge but not to resell the pattern without explicit permission. Please share photos of any projects you make using this design. If you post anything online please share a link back to this page.

Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂

Daisy block

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Here is the pattern for my latest block design.   I have worked up a few examples, playing with colours and yarn types.   I plan to add a row of these to my spring flowers blanket.   This is the block worked up in those colours using Stylecraft DK yarn and a 4mm hook.

I love playing with an ombré effect.   Here is the block using shades of pink radiating from a white centre.   The white can only be seen from the back!   The yarn here is Drops Paris worked on a 5mm hook.

Here are a couple of the blocks in Drops Muskat, back on a 4mm hook.  One has a coloured flower against a white background.   I really like the sheen on this yarn.   I will put a proper review into my next blog update.   I think a baby blanket with coloured flowers against white would be sweet.   The photo also shows the reverse with white flowers on blue.   You can see I became quite attached to this design quite quickly!

Here is the pattern 

Daisy block – UK terms

Foundation round 1 – Make a magic loop, chain 2, 11 DC into the loop, pull closed and join with a slip stitch

Round 2 – (chain 6, slip stitch into the root of the chain to form a loop, slip stitch into the next 2 stitches) x 5, chain 6, slip stitch into the root of the chain to form a loop, slip stitch into the base of the first chain loop. You should have a circle with six loops.

Round 3 – (7 DC into the first six chain loop, slip stitch into the stitch between loops) x 6, slip stitch to join to start point. You should have six petals.

Round 4 – (chain three, slip stitch into the stitch between the petals) x 6, slip stitch to join to the start point. Tip – These chains need to sit behind the petals but will probably be in front as you work them. Don’t worry, you can pull the petals back through at the end of the round.

Round 5 – (work 3 DC into the three chain loop, 1CH) x 6, slip stitch to join to start point.

Round 6 – chain 3, 2 Tr, (2Tr into the chain space, 3 Tr) x 2, 1Tr into the chain space, (3Tr, 2Tr into the chain space) x 2, 3Tr, 1Tr into the chain space. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting 3 chains.

Round 7 – chain 4, (Tr, chain 1) x 27, join with a slip stitch to the third chain in the 4 chains that started the round.

Round 8 – this is where we square the circle! Ch2, DC into the first chain space. Complete the round by working two stitches into each chain space as follows: (DC HTr, HTr Tr, Tr DTr, 2 chain, DTr Tr, Tr HTr, HTr DC, 2DC) x 3, DC HTr, HTr Tr, Tr DTr, 2 chain, DTr Tr, Tr HTr, HTr DC, slip stitch to join to the top of the two chains the started the round.

Round 9 – 2ch, work DC into each stitch. At the corners work 2DC, 2ch, 2DC into the two chain space. At the end of the round join with a slip stitch to the top of the two chains the started the round. And you are done! Sit back and admire or plan the project you are going to make with this lovely little block!

Daisy block – US terms

Foundation round 1 – Make a magic loop, chain 2, 11 SC into the loop, pull closed and join with a slip stitch

Round 2 – (chain 6, slip stitch into the root of the chain to form a loop, slip stitch into the next 2 stitches) x 5, chain 6, slip stitch into the root of the chain to form a loop, slip stitch into the base of the first chain loop. You should have a circle with six loops.

Round 3 – (7 SC into the first six chain loop, slip stitch into the stitch between loops) x 6, slip stitch to join to start point. You should have six petals.

Round 4 – (chain three, slip stitch into the stitch between the petals) x 6, slip stitch to join to the start point. Tip – These chains need to sit behind the petals but will probably be in front as you work them. Don’t worry, you can pull the petals back through at the end of the round.

Round 5 – (work 3 SC into the three chain loop, 1CH) x 6, slip stitch to join to start point.

Round 6 – chain 3, 2 DC (2DC into the chain space, 3 DC) x 2, 1DC into the chain space, (3DC, 2DC into the chain space) x 2, 3DC, 1DC into the chain space. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting 3 chains.

Round 7 – chain 4, (DC, chain 1) x 27, join with a slip stitch to the third chain in the 4 chains that started the round.

Round 8 – this is where we square the circle! Ch2, SC into the first chain space. Complete the round by working two stitches into each chain space as follows: (SC HDC, HDC DC, DC TR, 2 chain, TR DC, DC HDC, HDC SC, 2SC) x 3, SC HDC, HDC DC, DC TR, 2 chain, TR DC, DC HDC, HDC SC, slip stitch to join to the top of the two chains the started the round.

Round 9 – 2ch, work SC into each stitch. At the corners work 2SC, 2ch, 2SC into the two chain space. At the end of the round join with a slip stitch to the top of the two chains the started the round. And you are done!

I hope you enjoy this pattern as much as I enjoyed creating it.   Happy crocheting!

Annie 🙂