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Free crochet pattern for a Bunny Sunhat

February 21, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

Hello and thank you for visiting my crochet blog. In this post I am sharing one of my latest patterns with you for free. If you would like to see the pattern advert free then it will also be available to buy on my Etsy store as a pdf download. The bunny stitch itself is one I created early in 2021. I have used the stitch in a few patterns but I think this one is my favourite. As I designed it I was looking forward to Easter and better weather! I really hope you love this free crochet pattern for a bunny sunhat.

crochet bunny sunhat - child size
crochet bunny sunhat – child size

The pattern comes in two sizes. The Adult size has a headband of about 21 inches depending on your tension. The Children’s size has a headband that measures around 19 inches.

Crochet Bunny Sunhat – materials

This pattern is worked in Stylecraft Special Chunky yarn using a 6mm hook. I love the range of colours available in this yarn. I buy all mine from Woolwarehouse. You can see the full range of colours on their site here.

To make each hat you need just one ball of yarn in the colour of your choice (yarn A) and one ball in the contrast colour for the bunnies and hat band (yarn B). You can make the child’s hat in a solid colour with no contrast band using just one ball. Then you would only need oddments for the bunnies.

Free crochet pattern for a Bunny Sunhat -UK crochet terms

For US crochet terms I will add a separate post and will put a link here when it is live. If you want to work from these instructions then for DC read SC and for Tr or Treble read DC.

The hat is worked from the centre of the crown down and out to the brim in one piece. All the rows are worked on the right side of the hat apart from the row of bunny bodies for which we will turn the work inside out and work from the wrong side.

Adult and Child size – uk terms

Foundation and round 1

Start in Yarn A. Make a magic loop, CH3 and work 14Tr into the loop then pull the loop closed and slip stitch to join to the top of your starting chain stitches.

foundation row - bunny hat
foundation row – bunny sunhat
Round 2

CH2 then work 2DC into each of the stitches on the previous row. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 3

CH3 and work 29Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 4

CH2 then work (2DC into the next stitch and 1 DC into the following stitch) repeat the stitches in brackets 14 times then work 2DC into the final stitch of the round and make a slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 5

CH3 and work 44Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 6

CH2 then (work 2DC into the next stitch and 1DC into each of the following two stitches) repeat the stitches in the brackets 14 times then work 2DC into the next stitch and 1DC into the following stitch and join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 7

CH3 and work 59Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Carry on with these instructions for the CHILD size hat. Jump down in these instructions to the ADULT size.

Round 8 – Child

CH2 then (work 2DC into the next stitch then work 1DC into each of the next 14 stitches) repeat the stitches in the brackets 3 times then work 2DC into the next stitch and 1DC into each of the the following 13 stitches and join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 9 – Child

This round is the edge of the crown and start of the bunny band. CH2 then work DC into the back of the loops only to leave a ridge at the front of the work. You should have 63DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

working into the back of the loops
working into the back of the loops
Round 10 – Child

Chain 3 and work 63Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 11 – Child

Chain 2 and work 63DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 12 – Child

Chain 2 and work 63DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 13 – Child

This round we will add the bunny ears. The photographs that follow show the stitch being worked on a plain band not the hat so do not expect yours to look like this ๐Ÿ™‚

CH2, joining in the contrast yarn B then work one DC in yarn A. Remember to place yarn B against the top of the work as you work this DC. You can see in the picture that yarn B is carried along the work. The picture below shows the positioning of the yarn as you start the stitch.

bunny stitch start point
shows the position of the yarn at the start of stitch
Now for the ears!

Hold yarn A against the top of the work then wrap yarn B around your hook. Insert your hook into the stitch two rows down and one stitch behind the position of your last stitch.

crochet bunny stitch step 1
crochet bunny stitch – yarn round and push hook in two rows down and one stitch back

With your hook through to the back of the work, wrap yarn B round the hook and pull back through to the front.

crochet bunny stitch step 2
wrap the yarn round the hook at the back of the work
crochet bunny stitch step 3
pull the yarn through to form the first ear!

You should have three loops on the hook, one in yarn A and two in yarn B.

Second Ear coming up!

Now wrap yarn B around the hook again and insert the hook into the stitch two rows down and two in front of the position of your first ear stitch. Note this will be two along from the one you worked into in the first part of this stitch. This part is the second ear and you should see one clear stitch between the ears as shown below.

crochet bunny stitch step 4
yarn round and push the hook through two rows down and two along from the first ear
crochet bunny stitch step 5
wrap yarn round the hook at the back of the work

With your hook through to the back of the work, wrap yarn B round the hook and pull back through to the front. You should now have five loops on the hook, one in yarn A and four in yarn B.

crochet bunny stitch step 6
after the second ear has been formed your hook should look like this

Wrap yarn B around the hook and pull back through all the loops on the hook to leave one loop and complete the ear stitch.

crochet bunny stitch step 7
wrap the yarn around and pull through all the loops on the hook to form the ear stitch

Hold yarn B against the top of the work and work 3 DC in yarn A, carrying yarn B along as shown below.

crochet bunny stitch step 8
work 3DC in yarn A holding yarn B against the top of the work to carry it along
crochet bunny stitch step 9
work 3 DC in yarn A to complete the pattern repeat of four stitches

These four stitches form the bunny ears. Remember to keep an even tension by pulling the yarn gently each time you change colour. When you work your second pair of ears you should leave a gap of one stitch from the previous ear :-). Repeat another 14 times then work one more set of bunny ears. This time do not carry yarn B along, leave it at the back of the final set of ears. Work 1DC in yarn A and slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain. Break off yarn A.

Round 14 – Child

This round is the only one we will work from the wrong side of the piece. Turn your work inside out and pick up yarn B which should be positioned at the end of the last pair of ears you added. Each bunny is a four treble cluster stitch with the first treble being worked into the stitch in yarn B on the previous row. The remaining three Trebles are worked into the row below just between the ears. Don’t worry if this sounds complicated it is described in stages below with pictures.

To start the first bunny, CH3 in yarn B then treating this chain as the first Tr in a 4Tr cluster, work the remaining three Trs of the cluster into the space below and between the bunny ears. Pull the yarn through to leave one loop on the hook after this first bunny. Chain 3 and continue with a four Tr cluster into the next bunny ear stitch. Detailed steps with photos below.

Lets give the rest of your bunnies a body!

To work a cluster of trebles * start by wrapping your yarn round the hook and pushing it into the stitch in yarn B on the previous row.

Crochet bunny stitch step 10
start the four stitch cluster by wrapping the yarn around the hook and pushing it into the stitch in yarn B on the previous row

Complete half of the treble leaving two loops on the hook.

Crochet bunny stitch step 11
yarn round and pull through two loops
Crochet bunny stitch step 12
to leave two loops on the hook

Now start your second treble of the cluster by wrapping the yarn around the hook and inserting it into the row below, between the bunny ears. We are working on the wrong side of the piece on this row. It is important to check that your hook is coming through in the correct place between the ears and remember to check both sides!

crochet bunny stitch step 13
yarn round and push the hook between the bunny ears, yarn round and pull through
crochet bunny stitch step 14
half way through the four stitch cluster with three loops on the hook

Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull back through and you will have four loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn round and pull through two of these to complete half of the second treble and leave three loops on the hook.

Half way there on the bunny body!

Repeat twice more each time wrapping the yarn around and putting the hook in between the ear stitches. Wrap the yarn round and pull through, wrap the yarn round again and pull through two loops to complete half the third and fourth trebles of the cluster. You should have five loops on the hook.

crochet bunny stitch step 15
with the last stitch of the four stitch cluster on the hook

Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through all five loops and you have completed your bunny.

crochet bunny stitch final step
yarn round and pull back through all the loops on the hook to complete the cluster

Chain 3 and repeat from * until you get to the end of the row. At the end of the row when you have worked the last bunny, chain 3 and join with a slip stitch to the top of the 3 chain that started the row.

REMEMBER to turn the work back round so that you complete the remaining rows from the right side of the work.

Round 15 – Child

Join in yarn A, CH2 and work 63 DC placing four DC between each of your bunnies by working into the gaps between bunny bodies.

Round 16 – Child

CH3 and work 63 Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 17 – Child

CH2 and work 63 DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 18 – Child

This round forms the edge of the brim. As with the edge of the crown we will be working into half of the stitch as we turn the corner. This time we are working into the front loop of the stitch only.

CH2 then working into the front loop of the stitch only (work 2DC into the next stitch then one DC into the following stitch) repeat the stitches between brackets 31 times then work 2DC into the final stitch and slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain.

Round 19 – Child

If you are using your contrast colour for the brim then join in yarn B at this point. CH3 and work a round of Tr then slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain.

Round 20 – Child

CH2 and work a round of DC then slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain.

Round 21 – Child

CH2 and work (2DC into the next stitch then 1 DC into each of the following three stitches) repeat the stitches between brackets until you reach the end of the round then slip stitch to join to the top of the starting chain.

Round 22 – Child

CH3 and work a round of Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 23 – Child

CH2 then work a round of DC and join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 24 – Child

Final round!! If you have worked the brim in yarn B then rejoin yarn A to add the final round. CH2 and work a round of DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Now finish off your ends and you are done!!

Free crochet pattern for a Bunny Sunhat – UK crochet terms ADULT size

Round 8 – Adult

2CH and work (2DC into the next stitch then 1 DC into each of the following four stitches) repeat the stitches between the brackets 11 times then work 2DC into the next stitch and 1DC into each of the next 3 stitches then slip stitch into the top of the starting chain.

Round 9 – Adult

CH3 and work 71 Tr then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 10 – Adult

CH2 and work 71 DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 11 – Adult

This round is the edge of the crown and start of the bunny band. CH2 then work DC into the back of the loops only to leave a ridge at the front of the work. You should have 71DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain stitches.

Round 12 – Adult

CH2 and work 71 DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 13 – Adult

CH2 and work 71 DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 14 to Round 18 – Adult

Follow the instructions for Round 11 to Round 15 – Child. The Adult size works on CH + 71 stitches where the child size works on CH + 63 stitches. There are two more bunnies on the Adult size ๐Ÿ™‚

Round 19 – Adult

CH2 then work 71 DC and join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 20 – Adult

CH3 and work 71 TR then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 21 – Adult

CH2 and work 71DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 22 – Adult

CH2 and work 71 DC then join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.

Round 23 to Round 29 – Adult

Follow the instructions for Round 18 to Round 24 – Child. These rounds add the brim to complete the sunhat.

I really hope you love these little hats as much as I do. I have more projects to follow and more free patterns using my bunny stitch so please check back again or join my mailing list if you would like to see these. The first of these patterns is already available here – Free pattern for a crochet bunny headband.

If you would like to put up a link to this free crochet pattern for a bunny sunhat, please feel free. If you would like to make these hats to sell or share the pattern in any other way then please contact me first. It is my long term dream to build this blog by sharing free patterns and crochet love. I am always interested in talking to other bloggers on the same journey. Happy crocheting!

Annie ๐Ÿ™‚

Filed Under: Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet blog, crochet hat, crochet pattern, free crochet pattern

Crochet blog – January update

January 3, 2021 by Annie Leave a Comment

Hello everyone. Welcome to my crochet blog – January update with a couple of free patterns to start 2021. I have been reviewing and overhauling old blog posts. Turns out the last time I sent a general update was back in April 2019! There is nothing that points to success as a blogger better than consistency ๐Ÿ™‚ Possibly why my little blog is still just that…. a very little blog!

Anyway – thank you for reading, despite my lack of proper application to the task.

Project Updates

Lockdown Lapghan

In recent months I have been working on two projects. Firstly I created a pattern for a Lapghan using only one stitch, five colours and a pattern suitable for beginners. I called it Lockdown Lapghan and have worked it up in two sets of colours. You can see these below.

Lockdown Lapghan - berries in snow
Lockdown lapghan – Berries in the snow (with Milo)

lockdown lapghan - autumn sunset
lockdown lapghan – Autumn Sunset

The pattern for the Lapghan is spread across three separate posts as follows:

Lockdown Lapghan charts available to download here

Lockdown Lapghan basic pattern in UK and US instructions here

Lockdown Lapghan finishing and edging instructions here

New Large Heart and Edged Heart patterns

The other project I have just completed is a new crochet heart pattern. This is based on my previous heart pattern which remains my most popular (only popular) blog post. I wanted to create a larger sized heart. This one is c 10cm across when worked in chunky yarn. The free pattern for the new large heart is available here and I have also just added an edging pattern which is shown below. The original post for crochet hearts in three sizes is here

free pattern for new large heart
new large heart pattern

New Large Heart Edging – UK instructions

Starting at the centre of the top of the heart in a contrasting colour work 6 Dc. At the top of the heart into the next stitch work 2Dc. Work 2Dc into the next stitch then Dc into the following stitch. Then work 2Dc into the next stitch and 13 Dc down the left hand side of the heart. At the bottom of the heart work 1 Dc into the gap made by the chain on the previous row then 3Dc into the bottom stitch of the heart.

We are going to complete the second half of the heart edging as a mirror to the first. Work 1 Dc into the gap made by the chain on the previous row then 13 Dc up the right hand side of the heart. Next work 2Dc into the next stitch then Dc into the following stitch. Work 2Dc into each of the next two stitches. Finally work 6Dc down the centre of the right hand side of the top of the heart and finish off.

New Large Heart Edging – US instructions

Starting at the centre of the top of the heart in a contrasting colour work 6 Sc. At the top of the heart into the next stitch work 2Sc. Work 2Sc into the next stitch then Sc into the following stitch. Then work 2Sc into the next stitch and 13 Sc down the left hand side of the heart. At the bottom of the heart work 1 Sc into the gap made by the chain on the previous row then 3Sc into the bottom stitch of the heart.

We are going to complete the second half of the heart edging as a mirror to the first. Work 1 Sc into the gap made by the chain on the previous row then 13 Sc up the right hand side of the heart. Next work 2Sc into the next stitch then Dc into the following stitch. Work 2Sc into each of the next two stitches. Finally work 6Sc down the centre of the right hand side of the top of the heart and finish off.

crochet blog January update - New Large Heart - edging
new large heart pattern with edging

That is it for the crochet blog – January update. Spot the new year’s resolution to be better at posting updates and newsletters and blogging in general. Expect more in February (or not ๐Ÿ™‚ ) Happy Crocheting!

Annie ๐Ÿ™‚

Filed Under: Blog diary, Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet, crochet blanket, crochet blog, crochet design, crochet heart, crochet pattern, free crochet pattern, heart

Finishing your Lockdown Lapghan

December 28, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

This post is the third of my lockdown lapghan instructions. The first post covers the pattern for the basic square so if you are just starting you need to following this link to pick up the free pattern – Lockdown Lapghan free pattern. The second post covers the design of the lockdown lapghan. You can find the second post here – lockdown lapghan design. In this third post I will give you the instructions for finishing your lockdown lapghan.

Finishing off each square

The first job you have to complete is to finish off all the ends. Depending on your choice of colour changes you might have lots of these! Using a wool needle you need to weave each end into the work securely. Try to make them invisible by weaving in and out of a patch of the same colour. It is possible to make them ‘disappear’ from both sides with a little practice. Finishing off ends is not my favourite task but it is made an awful lot easier with the right equipment.

I highly recommend KnitPro Wool Needles. These have a big flexible loop rather than a fixed eye which makes threading eveng the thickest yarn very easy. You can find these easily on an Amazon search. They are less than ยฃ3 for three at the time of writing. Please note – I do try to work as an Amazon Affiliate from time to time. This means that it is possible that if you click on any advert or a link to Amazon in my blog I might receive a small payment. However, I only ever recommend products that I love – whether I am paid to say so or not!

I say above that I TRY to work as an Amazon Affiliate because if you sign up with Amazon and nobody clicks on any adverts for a few months, Amazon end your affiliate membership. So far it hasn’t worked for me – I think I have had my membership cancelled three times now ๐Ÿ™‚ I have written a series of posts on my blog progress if you would like to read more on this. I will keep trying!!

Finishing your lockdown lapghan – sewing up

Although I call this sewing up we will actually be joining the squares together using a very simple technique with a crochet hook. I covered this method in an earlier post which has full instructions and clear pictures. You can find these instructions here.

I like to lay out all my squares in the final positions once the ends are finished off and they are blocked. Blocking really helps with the appearance and is covered in my first post. I then gather up the squares for the two rows I am going to join into two piles. Starting at what will be the edge of the blanket I begin joining two squares along one edge. Once these are joined I pick up the next pair and join these without breaking the yarn. The advantage of not breaking the yarn? Fewer ends to finish off!

When I am joining my squares I work all the way down the blanket in one direction. After four joins, all the squares are attached at the top and bottom but not the sides. Then I start the four joins that run top to bottom and again work each of these in one continuous thread. I will add some pictures of this process when I am finishing my second blanket.

lockdown lapghan - autumn sunset
lockdown lapghan – Autumn Sunset

Finishing your lockdown lapghan – edging.

I promised this would be a very easy pattern so your edging can be very simple. Work one round of the same stitch we have used all the way through in a colour of your choice. At each corner follow the corner pattern from the odd rows of the block ie just do one Tr, 2CH, Tr (or DC, 2CH, DC in US terms) The picture of the finished blanket above includes just this simple edge as shown below.

lockdown lapghan treble edge
lockdown lapghan basic edge

There are other options with the edging though! If you are up for a little bit more complication, I would recommend adding a row of HTr (UK terms) or HDc (US instructions). This is a strong stitch for a border but does mean you need to learn another stitch! If you do go for an additional row of HTr work the corners as follows: UK terms – 2Htr, 2ch, 2Htr. US terms – 2HDc, 2CH, 2HDc. You can play with the colours in your border. Put in more than one row of different colours if you choose. The picture below shows the effect of adding a row of HTr (UK terms) or HDc (US terms).

edge with tr and htr
additional row of half trebles to give a stronger edge

If you are feeling more adventurous you could use one of my other favourite edging stitches. There is a free pattern on my blog for a three colour rope edging which I think I am going to use for my second blanket – pics to follow.

And you are done. Unless you feel like adding tassels to the corners ๐Ÿ™‚ I hope you have enjoyed this free pattern and that if you are new to crochet you manage to produce your first blanket! Happy crocheting!

Annie ๐Ÿ™‚

Filed Under: Crochet patterns Tagged With: beginner crochet, crochet, crochet beginner, crochet blanket, crochet blog, crochet design, easy crochet lapghan, free crochet pattern, Free pattern

Crochet Stars in Three Sizes

September 13, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

In this post you will find free crochet patterns in UK and US terms for you to make crochet stars in three sizes. I originally started working on these because we had heating on for the first time this year. My thoughts went straight to the making time remaining to me before Christmas ๐Ÿ™‚

However, these stars don’t have to be for Christmas. There are many uses through the year as card toppers, in garlands or as decoration when wrapping presents. They also work as reusable table confetti like the crochet hearts I made last year. You can find the patterns for the crochet hearts in this post – Crochet Hearts in three sizes.

Firstly let me tell you that the stars in the photos here are worked in Sirdar Cotton DK on a 4mm hook. I love this yarn for the stitch definition and the soft texture. Using this yarn the small star is roughly 4cm across, medium star measures 5cm and the largest one is 6cm across. The pattern will work in any yarn quality but the stars will come up different sizes of course.

Crochet Star – three sizes. Patterns in UK crochet terms – (Scroll down for patterns in US instructions)

Small Star – UK instructions

First round – make a magic loop (see below)

making a magic loop
magic loop

Work 2 chain into the magic loop and 9DC.

chain two into the magic loop
chain two
working the first round into the magic loop
work the first round into the magic loop

Pull the magic loop closed and join the first round with a slip stitch to the second of the starting chains.

close the magic loop and slip stitch to finish the round
pull the yarn tail to close the loop and finish with a slip stitch

Second round – Working into the same stitch, CH2, 1TR, CH2 picot*, 1DTR, 1TR. Work a slip stitch into the next stitch. There are eight stitches on round 1 remaining. Repeat the following pattern between the square brackets to the end of the row. [Working all the stitches in the following bracket into the next stitch (1HTR, 1TR, CH2 picot, 1DTR, 1TR), work a slip stitch into the next stitch] x 4. Finish off the yarn and you have your small star.

* work a picot as follows. slip stitch into the chain two from the hook as shown below.

work a slip stitch into the second chain from the hook to form the picot

Medium Star – UK instructions

First round – make a magic loop (see photos above)

Work 3 chain into the magic loop and 9TR. Pull the magic loop closed and join the first round with a slip stitch to the third of the starting chains.

Second round – Working into the same stitch, CH2, 1TR, CH2 picot*, 1DTR, 1TR. Work a slip stitch into the next stitch. There are eight stitches on round 1 remaining. Repeat the following pattern between the square brackets to the end of the row. [Working all the stitches in the following bracket into the next stitch (1HTR, 1TR, CH2 picot, 1DTR, 1TR), work a slip stitch into the next stitch] x 4. Finish off the yarn and you have your small star.

* work a picot as follows. slip stitch into the chain two from the hook as shown above.

Large Star – UK instructions

First round – make a magic loop (see photos above)

Work 3 chain into the magic loop and 9TR. Pull the magic loop closed and join the first round with a slip stitch to the third of the starting chains.

Second round – Chain 2, DC into the same space. Work 2DC into each of the remaining nine stitches then join with a slip stitch to the second of the starting chains.

Third round – Chain 2, 1TR into the same space. Into the next stitch work (1DTR, Chain 3, picot*, Chain 1, 1DTR). Into the next stitch work (1TR, 1HTR). Slip stitch into the next stitch to finish the first point of the star. Work four more points of the star as follows: [ into the first stitch (1HTR, 1TR), into the second stitch (1DTR, Chain 3, picot*, Chain 1, 1DTR), into the third stitch (1TR, 1HTR), work a slip stitch into the fourth stitch] repeat the instructions between the square brackets [ ] three more times and you are done!

* work a picot as follows. slip stitch into the chain two from the hook as shown above.

Patterns in US crochet terms – (Scroll up for patterns in UK instructions)

Small Star – US instructions

small crochet star

First round – make a magic loop (see photos above)

Work 2 chain into the magic loop and 9SC. Pull the magic loop closed and join the first round with a slip stitch to the second of the starting chains.

Second round – Working into the same stitch, CH2, 1DC, CH2 picot*, 1TR, 1DC. Work a slip stitch into the next stitch. There are eight stitches on round 1 remaining. Repeat the following pattern between the square brackets to the end of the row. [Working all the stitches in the following bracket into the next stitch (1HDC, 1DC, CH2 picot, 1TR, 1DC), work a slip stitch into the next stitch] x 4. Finish off the yarn and you have your small star.

* work a picot as follows. slip stitch into the chain two from the hook as shown above.

Medium Star – US instructions

First round – make a magic loop (see photos above)

Work 3 chain into the magic loop and 9DC. Pull the magic loop closed and join the first round with a slip stitch to the third of the starting chains.

Second round – Working into the same stitch, CH2, 1DC, CH2 picot*, 1TR, 1DC. Work a slip stitch into the next stitch. There are eight stitches on round 1 remaining. Repeat the following pattern between the square brackets to the end of the row. [Working all the stitches in the following bracket into the next stitch (1HDC, 1DC, CH2 picot, 1TR, 1DC), work a slip stitch into the next stitch] x 4. Finish off the yarn and you have your small star.

* work a picot as follows. slip stitch into the chain two from the hook as shown above.

Large Star – US instructions

First round – make a magic loop (see above)

Work 3 chain into the magic loop and 9DC. Pull the magic loop closed and join the first round with a slip stitch to the third of the starting chains.

Second round – Chain 2, SC into the same space. Work 2SC into each of the remaining nine stitches then join with a slip stitch to the second of the starting chains.

Third round – Chain 2, 1DC into the same space. Into the next stitch work (1TR, Chain 3, picot*, Chain 1, 1TR). Into the next stitch work (1DC, 1HDC). Slip stitch into the next stitch to finish the first point of the star. Work four more points of the star as follows: [ into the first stitch (1HDC, 1DC), into the second stitch (1TR, Chain 3, picot*, Chain 1, 1TR), into the third stitch (1DC, 1HDC), work a slip stitch into the fourth stitch] repeat the instructions between the square brackets [ ] three more times and you are done!

* work a picot as follows. slip stitch into the chain two from the hook as shown above.

I hope you love these little crochet stars as much as I do. Happy crocheting!

Annie ๐Ÿ™‚

Filed Under: Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet blog, crochet motif, free crochet pattern, Free pattern, star

Crochet Rope Edging

August 24, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

This three coloured rope crochet edging makes a beautiful finish to any project. I was looking for an neat edge that used all three of the colours from my project. This edging forms a pretty rope effect and although it feels a bit fiddly to start with you will soon find you get into a rhythm.

crochet rope edging
three colour crochet rope edging

The materials I am using in this example are Sirdar Cotton DK and a 4mm hook. These photographs use the following colours, Red (shade 510), Honeysuckle (shade 508) and Citrus (shade 531). The base colour is Vanilla (shade 502).

Three coloured rope crochet edging pattern

Choose your start point and join in the first colour. Make a chain of five stitches and take the hook out of the stitch to leave a loop. Tip – as you work it is easy to pull out stitches so I recommend pulling a bit of thread through to leave a larger loop.

Join in the second colour to the stich alongside your first chain and again make a chain of five stitches then remove the hook.

Finally join in the third colour into the next stitch of your project, making your final chain of five stitches. When you have joined your third colour the work should look like this picture below.

crochet rope edging
three colours joined

Start making the three coloured crochet rope

Next we are going to start to make the rope. Put your hook back into the loop at the end of the first chain you made. In my work above this is the yellow chain. This is where it gets a bit fiddly! I found if I worked slowly at first and kept the colours from tangling, I got into an easy rhythm after a few colour changes ๐Ÿ™‚

With your hook in the loop at the end of the first chain, bring this chain down in front of all the others and put your hook into the stitch next to the third colour. This is the next available stitch on the edge of your project as shown below.

crochet rope edging
hook placement for first twist of the rope

Make a slip stitch by putting your hook into this stitch, wrapping the yarn around and pull back through the work as shown below. Next pull this through the loop on the hook to form a slip stitch.

slip stitch to make the first twist
slip stitch to secure the first twist

Work another five chains with this colour and remove the hook from the work. Your edging should look like this picture below.

crochet rope edging 4
crochet rope edging after the first twist

You have made the first twist and the rest of the crochet rope follows the same method. Put your hook into the end of the chain nearest to the right of the work. Bring the chain to the front of the work and put your hook into the next available stitch to the left of the work. For my example here this means putting the hook into the end of the orange chain. Bring this chain forward and secure the twist with a slip stitch into the stitch next to the yellow chain, as shown in the photos below.

crochet rope edging 5
bring the next chain to the front of the work
crochet rope edging 6
work into the next available stitch
crochet rope edging 7
slip stitch leaving one loop on the hook
crochet rope edging 9
work another five stitch chain and move the hook to the next colour

Finishing your work – Tips

That really is all there is to it. Continue picking up each colour, bringing it to the front of the work and secure with a slip stitch before making a new five stitch chain. You will see your rope start to grow. More pictures below along with a few final tips.

crochet rope edging 10
third twist secured
crochet rope edging 11
keep going in the same way to form the rope

Using the rope edging on the ends of rows side

If you are working along an edge that has the ends of rows rather than a neat set of stitches this can be difficult to space. Measure the gap between two slip stitches of the same colour on your first edge and use that as a guide to place your slip stitches on this edge.

Changing the pattern to suit different weights of yarn or tension

If you find that the tension of the rope doesn’t sit well or look right then adjust the number of stitches you have in your chain. I found five chain stitches was perfect for this Cotton DK. You might need more/fewer if you are working with a different weight of yarn. Just find the right tension by trial and error working a small section then see how the edging sits.

Dealing with corners

If you are working on a square or rectangular project you will have to deal with a 90 degree corner or rather four corners! You should find that if you work three colours into one stitch either side of the corner the rope will continue round the corner. This means that you work all three colours into the last stich of the row before the corner. Turn and again work all three colours into the first stitch on the next side. Please let me know if you would like to see photos of this and I will add them or put up a separate post.

Adding in more colours

I only used three colours in my design here but you could work a rope with more colours or fewer. Simply adjust the length of chain you use to give the desired effect.

I think that is it for now. I put up a pattern for flower petal edging if you would like to try something different. You can see that pattern here – flower petal edging. Please let me know if you like this edging pattern and if there is anything else I can help with. Happy crocheting!

Annie ๐Ÿ™‚

Filed Under: Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet blog, crochet design, crochet edging, free crochet pattern, Free pattern

Rainbows and Hearts crochet blanket

February 2, 2020 by Annie Leave a Comment

Here is a Rainbows and Hearts version of my hearts and stripes blanket. I didn’t design the original blanket this way deliberately but when I realised the striped squares have seven bars of colour I HAD to make a rainbow version ๐Ÿ™‚

One of the issues with using more colours is having more ends to finish off. I have to confess I actually shelved the project at one point because tying off all these ends in REALLY thick yarn was pretty grim. However, I have found the most AMAZING gadget to help.

This is probably old news to lots of you but I hadn’t found these before. A ‘Wool needle’ made by Knit Pro. This needle has a blunt end like a tapestry needle. It also has a big loop (rather than an eye) to make threading easy. I love it!! When I am more organised I will put a link to Amazon in here. Until then, all you have to do is search on ‘knit pro wool needle’ to find them. Like all great inventions I am wondering why it took this long to be available. It seems such an obvious design and perfect for the job when you use it.

I will make a PDF of this pattern for sale on my Etsy store when I get chance. I didn’t want to hold up posting because it does take me a while to scrape the time together sometimes. The pattern for the blocks and advice on joining etc is available for free here:

This is the link that takes you to the heart block pattern

Here is the link to the striped block pattern

Finally this link takes you to the instructions for making up and border pattern. For the rainbow version I kept the border very simple. For UK instructions work one round of DC in White. One round of HTR in black. For US instructions make that one round of SC in white. One round of HDC in black.

Sorry if that is a bit clunky – I will produce the PDF as soon as I can. When I produce the PDF I will do a colour chart. If you want to make a start here is a full picture of the blanket laid out flat. Hopefully you can take your colour instructions from this!

I am already onto the next project. I have decided to make a cushion with the left-over yarn. Pattern and pics to follow.

Happy crocheting!

Annie ๐Ÿ™‚

Filed Under: Crochet patterns Tagged With: crochet, crochet blanket, crochet blog, free crochet pattern, hearts, hearts and stripes blanket, rainbow

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